ABS Conversion

Here is a picture of my setup. The master has 2 ports on one side, and then there is a bleeder valve on the other side. Front line is going to a T, which then goes off to both front wheels, and the rear line goes to the rear brakes. I honestly don’t remember what I got the proportioning valve off of, but the master is the same for 92-94 Crown Vics and Grand Marquis without ABS, so maybe go on car-part.com and search for a used master cylinder from one of those, just to get the proportioning valve. Either that or take the master to the junkyard and start pulling valves and test fitting them in the master until you find one that fits. FC7AF0C4-7630-4456-9556-14B5E1EF96DB.jpeg
 
Yeah thr JY Didn't yield results I got 4 from there 3 different patterns all to large or wrong thread looks like the majority of those that I've found are m18-1.0 whereas the m/c is m16-1.0
 
So what I'm trying now is a 90 thunderbird m/c with 1 of the 4 ports blocked off because the sizes on it are 2) m10-1.0 and 2) m12-1.0 well the brake lines on the car are 2) m10-1.0 and 1) m12-1.0 so I took the adapter piece out of the teves unit that converts from m12 to m10 and then put a blocker piece (dunno what it's called) into the end of that... Unfortunately unable to bleed it because I got a little to rowdy with a brake line and broke it so I'll repair that tomorrow (worn out for thr day)
 

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Ok so looking at your picture.. The bleeder is also another place you can attach a brake line just remove bleeder install line that's why when you look them up it says 3 ports... Also on the same side as the bleeder in the front of m/c you can take that piece out and either attach a line or switch it to the other side (if you needed the line on the other side) so being that technically you can have 4 lines run out of the m/c for the 92-94 crown vic seems to reason that I can do the same with the base line tbird m/c and closing off a line then I don't need the splitter or the proportioning valve... That's my therory anyway I don't know if it's accruate yet but I'll soon find out
 
It goes.... And it stops.... It's kinda easy to lock up the brakes under hard braking but it wasn't that hard to do it with the teves unit either (abs didn't work) so it's relatively the same on that front and I did it using a 90 thunderbird non SC booster and m/c without splitting the lines and just capped off the front port where the strut tower is bled brakes and done no proportioning valve either
 
Yep.. get the right parts and do it correctly you can throw away the old system and have solid driver controlled braking for cheap.
 
Well every one said you had to use a 93 crown vic m/c o couldn't get or find a portioning vavle to make the brake line fit do I used a thunderbird m/c and didn't need thr pro. Valve
 
I didn't have to cut any of them the 90 tbird base model m/c I got had 2 ports that where m10-1.0 and 2 that where m12-m1.0 so my brake lines where m10 and m12 so I just used those and closed off the extra m 12 scroll up and you'll see my photos of it
 
Last question and we can pretty much call this post completed I've seen some post about pull the abs fuse and thr anti lock light on the cluster will go out.... What fuse cause I pulled them one by one and it stayed on... Would be nice to not look at that even though it's been there since 2018(when I got it) with exception to a few times it would randomly turn off for a day
 
I believe its fed throuh a fusible link, according to EVTM. A fail safe, so that if the fuse blows, the light still comes on to warn that system has been disabled.
 
So basically you can't just pull a fuse to turn it off... But I can pull a bulb to turn it off
 
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