Angry Bird F100 PU shakedown for Rte. 66
- Thread starter jclars
- Start date
D5 in comment #19, this thread, an aspirator is simply a port, in this example, it appears to be engineering jargon for the standoff on the intake manifold where the large black w/red stripe vacuum hose connects. That hose leads over to a 3-port check valve on the driver side engine bay right near the firewall, just inside the fender, where it then goes thru the body into the fender well and to the servo and reservoir.
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My mileage was 22 hiway when I got the car in 2008 (98k miles). It gradually went down until it hit 12 mpg (110k miles), when overfueling and coolant did a job on my cats, etc, which were new in 2012. Then I did the head gaskets, injectors (re-hab'd) and had the cats removed (no testing in my county), along with a laundry list of items that made sense while I was in that deep.
If the injectors haven't been touched, I would rip them out and send them to Witch Hunters in Duvall WA to have them tested, cleaned and flowed. I had to go thru 8 before I had 6 that were good to go. The ones I took out were overdue to be replaced. I might have a couple decent spares if you need any.
If the O2 sensors are old, I'd replace them. FORD/MotorCraft brand, be careful of fakes...packaging is usually the give away.
Plugs and wires, of course. AutoLite APP 5144 and your choice of wires, no need to go exotic, but if you have the budget, Magnecor, otherwise, Motorcraft...shop warranty.
Mobil 1 synthetic, High Mileage (not 'Extended'), 5w-30, K&N HP2009 filter; air and fuel filter brand your choice. New MotorCraft 16# non-lever radiator cap.
I'd have it smoke tested for vacuum/boost leaks.
Tires with as much tread as possible, air pressure at max, I like 36 psi for my Anny. 38 is ok.
Finally, I nice cloak of ceramic wax/coating/detailer so she cuts the wind and looks great doing so.
If the injectors haven't been touched, I would rip them out and send them to Witch Hunters in Duvall WA to have them tested, cleaned and flowed. I had to go thru 8 before I had 6 that were good to go. The ones I took out were overdue to be replaced. I might have a couple decent spares if you need any.
If the O2 sensors are old, I'd replace them. FORD/MotorCraft brand, be careful of fakes...packaging is usually the give away.
Plugs and wires, of course. AutoLite APP 5144 and your choice of wires, no need to go exotic, but if you have the budget, Magnecor, otherwise, Motorcraft...shop warranty.
Mobil 1 synthetic, High Mileage (not 'Extended'), 5w-30, K&N HP2009 filter; air and fuel filter brand your choice. New MotorCraft 16# non-lever radiator cap.
I'd have it smoke tested for vacuum/boost leaks.
Tires with as much tread as possible, air pressure at max, I like 36 psi for my Anny. 38 is ok.
Finally, I nice cloak of ceramic wax/coating/detailer so she cuts the wind and looks great doing so.
"Finally, I nice cloak of ceramic wax/coating/detailer so she cuts the wind and looks great doing so."
Ha ha! Rust does not shine up that well, and as for aerodynamics, it is nimble for an old truck, but not exactly a stream lined design.
Thanks for the tips Ken! Most of the things you mention are okay. I replaced a bunch when it got on the road and have only put about 10000 miles on it since then. It is driven regularly, but not taxed by any means. Tires are new to the truck, but wide and flat profile so rough ride and road noise. Less than ideal for a long trip, but too expensive to not use.
I just looked at the brake pads and the fronts are maybe at 3/16" and still stopping good. I see 1/4" is recommended minimum, but that sounds like the brake companies wrote that spec. Considering replacing them just to be careful. Which would you recommend? Metal, ceramic, organic?? This is not a T-bird front, but a Jaguar with 11" rotors.
I mentioned my round trip to Portland. Mis-quoted the round trip miles. Should have been 540 miles. So a good test drive. Pic is of the truck, where you can see a wax job might put it over the top. Shine is not in character.
Ha ha! Rust does not shine up that well, and as for aerodynamics, it is nimble for an old truck, but not exactly a stream lined design.
Thanks for the tips Ken! Most of the things you mention are okay. I replaced a bunch when it got on the road and have only put about 10000 miles on it since then. It is driven regularly, but not taxed by any means. Tires are new to the truck, but wide and flat profile so rough ride and road noise. Less than ideal for a long trip, but too expensive to not use.
I just looked at the brake pads and the fronts are maybe at 3/16" and still stopping good. I see 1/4" is recommended minimum, but that sounds like the brake companies wrote that spec. Considering replacing them just to be careful. Which would you recommend? Metal, ceramic, organic?? This is not a T-bird front, but a Jaguar with 11" rotors.
I mentioned my round trip to Portland. Mis-quoted the round trip miles. Should have been 540 miles. So a good test drive. Pic is of the truck, where you can see a wax job might put it over the top. Shine is not in character.
Nice, very nice. Makes me miss my '56 long bed...
About the brakes, what does the truck weigh now?
I use ceramic on all my rides, but the ones on the 'Bird include kevlar, $$:
The Audi has 321mm rotors w/2-pot Girling calipers. It weighs a couple hundred pounds less then the Anny. When I got it last year, the pads were less than a year old, but I think the rotors weren't done...looked ok tho.
Only problem was sharp squealing in the last few yards of coming to a stop, otherwise they bit early, grabbed hard and held on tight. The pads appeared to be mostly metallic - squeal stop had no effect. If you complain to Audi they say 'race brakes' and to stop driving it like a wuss and get on with it.
Couldn't get used to the squealing, so just last week I installed new slotted/drilled/anodized rotors, and Brembo ceramic pads:
Only have a couple hundred miles on them so far. Pedal feel is a bit different, need a tiny bit of heat before they bite. If they don't haul me down anything like before, the metals go back on. With the tuned ECU and speed limiter lifted, this is supposed to be a 180 mph car...I need it to stop with no fade, etc.
I put full stainless braided brake lines on the SC and it helped pedal feel. The front brake lines on the Audi were one hard panic stop from blowing out when I got it. I've already put braided on the front, rears are waiting to go on. I highly recommend them if you haven't made the move already. DOT 4 or 5 fluid FTW.
About the brakes, what does the truck weigh now?
I use ceramic on all my rides, but the ones on the 'Bird include kevlar, $$:
The Audi has 321mm rotors w/2-pot Girling calipers. It weighs a couple hundred pounds less then the Anny. When I got it last year, the pads were less than a year old, but I think the rotors weren't done...looked ok tho.
Only problem was sharp squealing in the last few yards of coming to a stop, otherwise they bit early, grabbed hard and held on tight. The pads appeared to be mostly metallic - squeal stop had no effect. If you complain to Audi they say 'race brakes' and to stop driving it like a wuss and get on with it.
Couldn't get used to the squealing, so just last week I installed new slotted/drilled/anodized rotors, and Brembo ceramic pads:
Only have a couple hundred miles on them so far. Pedal feel is a bit different, need a tiny bit of heat before they bite. If they don't haul me down anything like before, the metals go back on. With the tuned ECU and speed limiter lifted, this is supposed to be a 180 mph car...I need it to stop with no fade, etc.
I put full stainless braided brake lines on the SC and it helped pedal feel. The front brake lines on the Audi were one hard panic stop from blowing out when I got it. I've already put braided on the front, rears are waiting to go on. I highly recommend them if you haven't made the move already. DOT 4 or 5 fluid FTW.