Can't catch a break

SC-AL said:
That is what I would do. Also, I have a question for you guy's. I see more than a few cases of spun bearings here. How do you do that? I've turned 5,500 rpm, by being slow on a shift, usually in 1st, or 2nd gear. But that is rare. Even at 5,000 rpm, it's not pulling, with a peak HP at 4,000. I got my white SC dirt cheap, because of a spun bearing.
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High r.p.m.'s dont nessasarily cause a bearing to spin. It is caused by the rod or main bearing losing its cushion of oil between it & the crankshaft. The friction created by the spinning crank contacting the bearing insert causes them to weld to the crank & they spin in the connecting rod or the block( mains). The loss of the oil film (.001-.003 thick) can be from inability to maintain pressure-bad pump, lack of oil, poor quality/contaminated oil,wrong viscosity, worn bearings passing so much oil the pump cant keep up, oil filter bypass not working,etc.
The only time I've seen high r.p.m. cause oil starvation is when so much oil is pumped up to the lifters/rockers/ cyl. heads/ over head cams, etc., that it cant drain back down to the oil pan fast enough & the pump sucks it dry. This used to be common in olds 455's
 
MadMikeyL said:
Another common cause is if the head gaskets blew and the engine was run with coolant in the oil, that damages the bearings very quickly, and I have seen numerous instances not only on these cars but other engines as well where the head gasket goes, the oil looks like chocolate milk, someone fixes the head gasket and changes the oil thinking they are good, and within a few thousand miles the bottom end is knocking.
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X2
 
So it's been a while but I finally have an update. The builder has finished with the engine. We had gotten a block from MadMikey a little while back and the builder dragged his feet getting it together. Told me the bearings were good but he couldn't put them back on in good conscience so he found the last set of standard crank bearings in the country to install. Fine.

Gave me the extra parts he had, including the bearings that had 100 miles on them. The shop says the car should be ready by the end of the week. They already have the motor dropped back in. All new gaskets were put on too even tho the set only had 100 miles. Fingers crossed things go well. I now have an extra cam, crank and heads from a stock motor. More stuff to store.
 
Glad it is going back together. I know main bearings for the 3.8 in the SC, with a standard,(unturned), crank are not available. Some parts suppliers say they have them, but they don't. With my engine rebuild, I used King SI series bearings. I bought a set of mains for a 3.8, (232 cid), in a standard size, then ordered another set of .010", (.25mm), undersize, for just the rear main.
I assume you are using arp head studs, so I don't know what the torque is with them. I do know with stock torque to yield head bolts, there it is quite a procedure, to torque them. Also the SC engine has a different final last step, than a regular 3.8.
 
SC-AL said:
Glad it is going back together. I know main bearings for the 3.8 in the SC, with a standard,(unturned), crank are not available. Some parts suppliers say they have them, but they don't. With my engine rebuild, I used King SI series bearings. I bought a set of mains for a 3.8, (232 cid), in a standard size, then ordered another set of .010", (.25mm), undersize, for just the rear main.
I assume you are using arp head studs, so I don't know what the torque is with them. I do know with stock torque to yield head bolts, there it is quite a procedure, to torque them. Also the SC engine has a different final last step, than a regular 3.8.
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We have ARP head studs thankfully. Two sets now. Hopefully the engine builder knows the steps because I have zero clue. Mechanic has the engine in the car and now is looking for a lower radiator hose. Cant find one anywhere apparently.
 
I'd have to look, but I'm pretty sure the factory manual tells you not to remove/loosen or install/torque the main bolts unless the heads & intake manifold are on & torqued to spec or it can cause the block to distort. Does that make sense? The rear bolts go up to just slightly under rear intake mounting flange & everything (heads & manifold) need to be in place to keep everything stable or tied together? My machinest said he guess's its possible but he's never heard of it.
 
I just checked in my 1990 factory service manual. "Loosen the lower intake manifold attachments, prior to installing bearings, or measuring bearing clearances. I did see in one description, that they called the lower intake bolts, attaching bolts. Seemed confusing.
 
SC-AL said:
I just checked in my 1990 factory service manual. "Loosen the lower intake manifold attachments, prior to installing bearings, or measuring bearing clearances. I did see in one description, that they called the lower intake bolts, attaching bolts. Seemed confusing.
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LOL, I was going to check my 90 factory manual tonight when I got home. Guess I had it backwards. You need to loosen manifold, not make sure its tight. I knew there was something about intake. Still hard to believe it would change things in the mains, I forgot about it being important to checking the clearences.
 
DOUG H said:
LOL, I was going to check my 90 factory manual tonight when I got home. Guess I had it backwards. You need to loosen manifold, not make sure its tight. I knew there was something about intake. Still hard to believe it would change things in the mains, I forgot about it being important to checking the clearences.
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Im nervous now this engine builder didnt get things right.
 
MercXr7-5speed said:
Im nervous now this engine builder didnt get things right.
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I wasn't posting that to discourage you or douhting your builders skill's. I'm sure it'll be fine. It was more of a general comment about how overly complicated these engines can be & how stressed some of the components can be.
 
DOUG H said:
I wasn't posting that to discourage you or douhting your builders skill's. I'm sure it'll be fine. It was more of a general comment about how overly complicated these engines can be & how stressed some of the components can be.
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Lol. You're good. I'm just nervous after this guy buggered the last block. More excited to cruise with junior together being we both have red SCs. I dont want him to suffer anymore with this car. After all, it was me that got him interested in them. What a good father I am.

I will need to swap out my tranny this spring. Current AOD has no OD. The wife cant drive stick well and I doubt she could handle a manual in these cars so this mine is and stays an auto. Inhave three other manuals I can enjoy. MadMikey was talking me into a 4r70w swap. Need to read up on that.
 
Just glad to hear your long( frustrating ) journey has almost come to the end & you'll both be enjoying them soon. My wife & I enjoy taking matching Turbo Coupes & Super Coupes to show's/cruise nights. She prefers the 5 speeds though. I get stuck with the auto lol.Sometimes we trade for the trip home.
 
DOUG H said:
Just glad to hear your long( frustrating ) journey has almost come to the end & you'll both be enjoying them soon. My wife & I enjoy taking matching Turbo Coupes & Super Coupes to show's/cruise nights. She prefers the 5 speeds though. I get stuck with the auto lol.Sometimes we trade for the trip home.
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Haha. Thats great. She can drive my 3000gt pretty well but thats an easy clutch. Shes afraid of the S5. I told her, the exhaust makes that car sound worse than it is.
 
Car wouldnt start. I went to look at it and saw exactly why. There is no crank sensor. Builder says he doesn't have it even tho he was given two blocks, both with sensors. I usually wouldnt do this but if you are in the South Eastern Pennsylvania area...stay away from Ecam Machine Shop. This guy is unreal. Told the mechanic the old block is in the dumpster, maybe the sensor is on there.

What dumpster? Your scrap dumpster? Who throws a block in the dumpster and doesnt scrap it? I just ordered another one of the ones from eBay. Same one I ordered for my car. And who builds a motor and leaves the empty studs there without being like...hmmmm...maybe something goes there...1000019397.jpg
 
Wow, he sure was liberal with the silicone!! Not just the empty stud's, did he not wonder what that end of the harness was supposed to go to?
 
MercXr7-5speed said:
Car wouldnt start. I went to look at it and saw exactly why. There is no crank sensor. Builder says he doesn't have it even tho he was given two blocks, both with sensors. I usually wouldnt do this but if you are in the South Eastern Pennsylvania area...stay away from Ecam Machine Shop. This guy is unreal. Told the mechanic the old block is in the dumpster, maybe the sensor is on there.

What dumpster? Your scrap dumpster? Who throws a block in the dumpster and doesnt scrap it? I just ordered another one of the ones from eBay. Same one I ordered for my car. And who builds a motor and leaves the empty studs there without being like...hmmmm...maybe something goes there...View attachment 99853
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Do you have another bracket or did he toss that in the trash as well?
 
I wouldn't blame the builder, as much as the mechanic, for sending the engine out, without stripping it of brackets, flywheel, sensors, balancer, all wiring, etc.
 
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