diagnosis and testing EI ignition system from Control/ Emissions Manual

djs56

Registered User
I'm ready to try and start my newly replaced SC 3.8 engine. Can anyone copy and post the pages on how to diagnosis and testing EI ignition system from Control/ Emissions Manual?
 

djs56

Registered User
Thanks for the info. I worked for little bit this morning till it got to hot. So fare i got no spark and no power going to pin #4 of the CKP & pin #1 on (ICM). I do have power at pin #13 on the (CCRM). I'll need to Backtrack wire loom and find the brake. Any other places I should look?
 

35th

Registered User
Make sure the ground between the battery and headlight area is plugged in and making contact that somehow someway is the ground for thr computer without it the computer doesn't turn on
 

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35th

Registered User
When I pulled my engine and put it back in I missed that and spent way too long trying to figure out what was wrong so I know for sure my car absolutely will not fire without it
 
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djs56

Registered User
Sorry it took me long to update. Thanks: KMT,DOUG H, 35th the plug behind the battery was plugged in, I cleaned it anyhow and checked all grounds. Perversely I cut out out the W/PK wire from the neutral switch and ran a new one up to the solenoid for a no crank problem (that worked).
This last week I've jumped some wires from ICM to PCM. Car fires up from the key, but only runs a sec. or 2 them dies, it's got good fuel psi.
Long story short.... I'm trying to get it to run before I hookup the plumbing from the blower incase I needed to go back in deeper. Question, (Could motor be getting to much air without blower plumbing hooked up & dyeing and or from cutting out and rerouting the W/PK from neutral switch but not rewiring in the GY/R like on page 24-4 and 24-5 of the EVTM causing the die? Also is this GY/R wire only hot when in the start position?
Any help is greatly appreciated. (Good thing I'm retired LOL so I've got time to work on this Black beautiful / black leather 93 SC. I'll get it running, it's getting closer till the next problem pops up)
 

DOUG H

SCCoA Member
Couple questions: when you say newly replaced motor, do mean you replaced with a used engine or you removed/rebuilt/replaced yours? If you rebuilt yours, how did you set cam sensor timing? If used engine did you just use sensors/harness's that came with it? Did you follow the diagnostic procedure that you requested & KMT posted? Are there any codes?

When you said you hadn't installed the "blower" plumbing, I thought you were referring to the HVAC system .
If you dont have all the piping installed for the air filter to throttle body & all the supercharger piping, the mass air flow sensor readings being sent to the computer will be way out of range & may cause what you are describing-run a few seconds & quit. It either will be sensing air passing through it that actually isn't going into the engine or there is air going into the engine that isnt being read by the sensor so nothing matchs what other sensors are seeing. Throttle postion, rpm( cam sensor) O2 sensor, intake air temp,etc. You should actually have a # of different codes if you're trying to start/run it without everything hooked up.
 

DOUG H

SCCoA Member
Sorry it took me long to update. Thanks: KMT,DOUG H, 35th the plug behind the battery was plugged in, I cleaned it anyhow and checked all grounds. Perversely I cut out out the W/PK wire from the neutral switch and ran a new one up to the solenoid for a no crank problem (that worked).
This last week I've jumped some wires from ICM to PCM. Car fires up from the key, but only runs a sec. or 2 them dies, it's got good fuel psi.
Long story short.... I'm trying to get it to run before I hookup the plumbing from the blower incase I needed to go back in deeper. Question, (Could motor be getting to much air without blower plumbing hooked up & dyeing and or from cutting out and rerouting the W/PK from neutral switch but not rewiring in the GY/R like on page 24-4 and 24-5 of the EVTM causing the die? Also is this GY/R wire only hot when in the start position?
Any help is greatly appreciated. (Good thing I'm retired LOL so I've got time to work on this Black beautiful / black leather 93 SC. I'll get it running, it's getting closer till the next problem pops up)
In your June 6th post,( no crank) you stated you had the EVTM & the service manual. You should be tell from looking in them which wires are energized when in crank mode & that the ECM does need a crank signal as well, which you have eliminated.May be part of your current issue?
 

djs56

Registered User
Installed remanufactured short block & my redone heads using ARP studs.
The camshaft sensor & synchronizer assy. info I got on line forums with diagrams. I'm fairly confident it's right.
I used all the wire harnesses from my car some of it was brittle.
I did follow diagnostic procedure up to check #4 pointing to a damaged wires ( I ran jumpers from pin #56 of the ECM up to pin #1 of the Crank Sensor also jumped Pin #16 ECM to pin #3 of crank sensor. At that point engine fired on all 6 but only for a sec. tried several times & same result.
At that point I stopped went back to EVTM found page 24-4 and 24-5. I'll need to rewire in the GY/R that were terminated
I do have all air inlets hooked up going thru throttle body, but not from supper charger to cooler and back in. Question: should I have the belt hooked up spinning the supper charger also?
I'll have no codes to read because I disconnect the battery at the day & may not get hooked up for 3-4 days later. Like now I won't get back at it till mid week. I got some more work to do.
Thanks will keep you posted.
 

DOUG H

SCCoA Member
The way you have things configured now, (belt off & piping missing) no air is even being drawn through or measured by the mass air flow sesnsor. On top of that you've bypassed wiring so the computer doesn't even know it should be in start mode & you've jumped other wires also? I'm surprised it fires at all. The ECM doesn't know whats going on. Its only recieving 1/2 the info it needs to set timing,injector pulse & the IAC for starting. & your drawing unfilterd air into a new motor?
 

djs56

Registered User
Yep, I'll get back on it mid week, hookup the piping + belt, check diagnostic procedures again and the wiring to the sensors and see where that leads me.
Thanks, I'll fill you in at end of the week
 
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