Fuel Pump Access

S

Siberianhusky

Registered User
I own a 1989 T Bird SC and I read on the internet that some cars didn't say what makes have a access hole in the floorboard to change the fuel pump thats in the tank. Could someone tell me if the 89 SC has a access hole so the tank does not have to be dropped.
 
Siberianhusky said:
I own a 1989 T Bird SC and I read on the internet that some cars didn't say what makes have a access hole in the floorboard to change the fuel pump thats in the tank. Could someone tell me if the 89 SC has a access hole so the tank does not have to be dropped.
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No hole to access pump.

You could just take a saws-all and make your own. :rolleyes:

Make sure you drain the gas first.......
 
do a search, I can't remember who posted it but there is a thread with a drawing/pic of where to cut a hole under the rear seat. They did not come with one from the factory.
Adam
 
I will do some more research the reason being I just replaced the inline fuel filter and today when I drove 35 miles and shut the car off and went to restart it the fuel pump did not turn on and the car would not start. I turned the ignition off then back on the fuel pump kicked on and the car started and run great. I may have a future pump replacement in store.
 
That might not be your pump going bad... It could be the IRCM thats behind the passenger headlight. I have had the fuel pump relay leave me stranded at odd times and places, some times it would work and other times not.

Also, the ignition switch and/or the electrical block in front of it separating and causing random issues.

Justin

Siberianhusky said:
I will do some more research the reason being I just replaced the inline fuel filter and today when I drove 35 miles and shut the car off and went to restart it the fuel pump did not turn on and the car would not start. I turned the ignition off then back on the fuel pump kicked on and the car started and run great. I may have a future pump replacement in store.
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I appreciate it Justin. The ignition switch is shot. The car won't start with the ignition. It only turns on everything in the run position. Last year I had to install a push button starter switch to the starter. Now I turn the ignition switch to run and start the car with the push button. I will check those items mentioned.
 
Here is a pic that might help you locate the hole. I used a drill and some tin snips.
 

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I just cut a hole too and I wish I had done it a long time ago.

and I cant belive your still using the stock lines
 
Pulling the exhaust and fuel tank is a real pain. But I would do that 5 times before cutting a hole in the car. That's just me.
 
S_Mazza said:
Pulling the exhaust and fuel tank is a real pain. But I would do that 5 times before cutting a hole in the car. That's just me.
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I heard others say that and I just dont get it:confused: Drop a gas tank 5 times rather than cut an access hole???I had a fuel pump problem on the dyno in Dayton. Without unhooking the car I had the pump out in 5 minutes, fixed and back in ready to run. Whole thing took less than 15 minutes. It was one smart mod with no draw backs. I also had a plate I made to cover the hole which takes care of gas smells.

Ken
 
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kenewagner said:
I heard others say that and I just dont get it:confused: Drop a gas tank 5 times rather than cut an access hole???I had a fuel pump problem on the dyno in Dayton. Without unhooking the car I had the pump out in 5 minutes, fixed and back in ready to run. Whole thing took less than 15 minutes. It was one smart mod with no draw backs. I also had a plate I made to cover the hole which takes care of gas smells.

Ken
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The stock fuel pump lasted 19 years. I hope the Walbro I put in lasts 10, but I will bet it lasts at least 5. So this will, most likely, be only an occasional annoyance.

On the other hand, rust never sleeps. Down south, who cares? Up here where I live, everyone should care. And even if the hole is treated properly, the floor will always have stress risers that can promote cracking.
 
If your pump hat seal is good you won't have a gas smell. And like Ken said you can make a plate to screw over it if you want. Alot of newer cars have an access plate under rear seats.
 
exactly. Pick up some galvanized or ss sheet from the local hardware store. Next time you drop your tank, eyeball where to cut, with the tank dropped drill a large hole and raise the tank up and check position. Once you have that defined, use a cut off wheel or big tin snip to open up a whole big enough to access the fuel tank hat.

File off the sharp edges and then shape your sheet steel for the opening, leave enough material around the hole to seal. using a ball peen hammer to contour the sheet to the space. Due to the clearance there you need to be cautious with fasteners. I'd be shopping the hardware store and probably use some sort of hinge setup for the new door. Then seal it with fuel resistant RTV.

I wouldn't try to do this with the tank in the chassis, since there really is near zero clearance between the sheet metal and the top of the tank.
 
Some guys have taken the cap from the GPs and used that. Already has bolt holes, bolts and seal on it. Just use the cap for the hole template and cut away.
 
S_Mazza said:
Pulling the exhaust and fuel tank is a real pain. But I would do that 5 times before cutting a hole in the car. That's just me.
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Depends on how clean the car is. One more patched hole in my hooptie ain't gonna mater:D
Adam
 
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