Fuel Pump Access

kenewagner

kenewagner

Registered User
Mike8675309 said:
Due to the clearance there you need to be cautious with fasteners. I'd be shopping the hardware store and probably use some sort of hinge setup for the new door. Then seal it with fuel resistant RTV.

I wouldn't try to do this with the tank in the chassis, since there really is near zero clearance between the sheet metal and the top of the tank.
Click to expand...


Actually there is plenty of clearance between the tank and floor. The spot to worry about is where the fuel lines run. They actually almost touch the floor. I took a picture of the location of the hole and drew two lines where the fuel lines were located on another thread. Hopefully so someone would just start wacking and nick or cut a fuel line. I fitted a plate over the hole and installed 1/4" threaded inserts in and used SS button head allen head bolts. Very clean mod. As for the hole causing rusting problems or weaking the body in anyway I dont buy into that. If Chris, myself and others running over 400rwhp haven't seen problems, I doubt lower powered SC will have a problem. And I didnt see any rusting going on when I finally laid the old fuel tank to rest. We get a lot of nasty winter in Nebraska too;)

Ken
 
M

Miller

Registered User
I made my hole with the tank in place. as long as you drill in the corner towards drivers side you have no chance of hitting anything. just dont drill all the way into the tank. ;)
 
T

ThunderRoad

Registered User
take out the back seat find the furl pump wire

Siberianhusky said:
I own a 1989 T Bird SC and I read on the internet that some cars didn't say what makes have a access hole in the floorboard to change the fuel pump thats in the tank. Could someone tell me if the 89 SC has a access hole so the tank does not have to be dropped.
Click to expand...

it,s on the passener side:D remove tar:eek: pop out rubber gromett :mad: use tin snips and cut a hole big enough to remove the pump :cool: after done make cardboard cover to put over the hole:p cover edges about 1/2 all around;) drill 1/8 holes about 1/4 from edges :D trace over the hole to center up patch :eek: take drill bit wrap tape on bit about 3/8 or less from tip so you don,t drill into gas tank:( poprivet on or use very short sheet metal screws:) when done spray rubber sound proffing on the patch :D go to www.ecrtcc.com look up tech site :eek:
 
Kobassa Power

Kobassa Power

Registered User
Fuel pump location

Hi Gents, I'm trying to salvage my 95 Sc. My fuel pump died and the mechanic wants to send the car to the scrap yard.

Can you guys give me a better picture as to where to cut the hole in the back seat for pump access ?

Thanks , I'll probably need a better picture than the one posted.
 
kenewagner

kenewagner

Registered User
Kobassa Power said:
Hi Gents, I'm trying to salvage my 95 Sc. My fuel pump died and the mechanic wants to send the car to the scrap yard.

Can you guys give me a better picture as to where to cut the hole in the back seat for pump access ?

Thanks , I'll probably need a better picture than the one posted.
Click to expand...

Type into search "need help with fuel pump" I posted in that thread where a hole needs to be made to access the fuel pump. It has to be done carefully as not to nick the fuel lines

Ken
 
R

RalphP

SCCoA Member
Kobassa Power said:
Hi Gents, I'm trying to salvage my 95 Sc. My fuel pump died and the mechanic wants to send the car to the scrap yard.

Can you guys give me a better picture as to where to cut the hole in the back seat for pump access ?

Thanks , I'll probably need a better picture than the one posted.
Click to expand...

Th'HELL???

Look, with a lift, it's a 1 hour job max to swap the fuel pump. What ELSE is wrong with your car?

RwP
 
S_Mazza

S_Mazza

Registered User
RalphP said:
Th'HELL???

Look, with a lift, it's a 1 hour job max to swap the fuel pump. What ELSE is wrong with your car?

RwP
Click to expand...

Well ... There is one hard thing about the fuel pump job. Rusted exhaust studs! Other than that, it's not too bad. Just awkward to get the tank down without a helper.

I agree, it is a rather minor thing to scrap a car over.
 
R

RalphP

SCCoA Member
S_Mazza said:
Well ... There is one hard thing about the fuel pump job. Rusted exhaust studs! Other than that, it's not too bad. Just awkward to get the tank down without a helper.

I agree, it is a rather minor thing to scrap a car over.
Click to expand...

I don't understand - I live in Louisiana.

What's this "rust" you speak of? :D:D

To drop the exhaust, it took about ten minutes on my back under the car on jack stands. But then, I'm in Louisiana.

I DID coat it all in antiseize when I put the ball joint back together.

And if you've got an aftermarket without ball joints there - well, serves you right :D:D

RwP
 
kenewagner

kenewagner

Registered User
Funny how people want to jack up a car, drop everything out to access the fuel tank to get to a fuel pump. And than reinstall everything. Its easy to access the pump and one can cut an access hole in far less time and not have rust dropping in your face from rusty bolts and parts. I had problems on the dyno once with my pump. Didnt even unstrap it from the dyno. 10 minutes, pump pulled, fixed and reinstalled, ready for my next pull. I always feel if its an easy fix than its a no brainer. Just saving a car from the bone yard should be simple thing.

Ken
 
T

ThunderRoad

Registered User
i second that many jobs are not 2 hard ...

i did my power windows motors from info found here :) and was much easier than the car manual showed :mad: where there,s a will there,s a way ;)
 
90sc35thann

90sc35thann

Registered User
kenewagner said:
Funny how people want to jack up a car, drop everything out to access the fuel tank to get to a fuel pump. And than reinstall everything. Its easy to access the pump and one can cut an access hole in far less time and not have rust dropping in your face from rusty bolts and parts. I had problems on the dyno once with my pump. Didnt even unstrap it from the dyno. 10 minutes, pump pulled, fixed and reinstalled, ready for my next pull. I always feel if its an easy fix than its a no brainer. Just saving a car from the bone yard should be simple thing.

Ken
Click to expand...

I found your old post. That method rocks. I am defintiely going to use it. How empty should the tank be for this method to also work? I am certain a totally full tank would spill some fuel using this method.
 
Last edited:
TbirdSCFan

TbirdSCFan

Registered User
S_Mazza said:
Well ... There is one hard thing about the fuel pump job. Rusted exhaust studs!
Click to expand...
If you guys are having problems with rusted exhaust studs... then the problem is obvious... you aren't replacing your transmission often enough. :rolleyes:
 
Steve Meyers

Steve Meyers

Registered User
I have had to drop my tank 5-6 times, between putting in my 340 LPH pump, draining e-85, installing -8/-6 an braided lines....I honestly don't think it's too bad.

I personally won't be cutting a hole in the car.
it'd be nice to have a fuel cell in the trunk though.

When your on a dyno, I could see how nice it'd be to just get it taken care of within 10 minutes and not having to leave the dyno to hassle with it.
 
Jacob_Royer

Jacob_Royer

SCCoA Member
I've cut same said access hole in my musyang! Its a no brainer and I can change a fuel pump in 5 mins vs a day about to do the same thing to the Sc. My exhaust Is one piece!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top