Fuel Pump Access

Steve Meyers

Registered User
Even if I had a hole cut in the floor, I don't think I could get my pumps out without dropping the tank. The three 6AN lines and 90 degree fittings on the pump hat make for a tight fit, that required a lot of sheet metal clearance work with a hammer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CXGqJRY7nw

David

Do you have a dual intank pump?
That would be my only guess for the 3 6AN lines..... 2 supply, 1 return?

I didn't have crazy amounts of room with my setup, I can only imagine 3 lines lol
 

David Neibert

SCCoA Admin
Do you have a dual intank pump?
That would be my only guess for the 3 6AN lines..... 2 supply, 1 return?

I didn't have crazy amounts of room with my setup, I can only imagine 3 lines lol

Yes, dual 255 hi pressure in tank, with dual 6AN supply and single 6AN return. I've got the same thing in both of my SCs, but the install for my 91 SC is a little cleaner. Fit is extremely tight and requires the fuel level float/sender to be mounted to a tank baffle instead of the pump assy.

garage_attachment.php


David
 

Steve Meyers

Registered User
Yes, dual 255 hi pressure in tank, with dual 6AN supply and single 6AN return. I've got the same thing in both of my SCs, but the install for my 91 SC is a little cleaner. Fit is extremely tight and requires the fuel level float/sender to be mounted to a tank baffle instead of the pump assy.


Holy cow, Bugger looks huge!
What's the major difference between doing dual 255 pumps vs. a 340 pump?
Is the 340lph sufficient enough for mid 600 rwhp?

Not trying to high jack the thread or anything
 

David Neibert

SCCoA Admin
Holy cow, Bugger looks huge!
What's the major difference between doing dual 255 pumps vs. a 340 pump?
Is the 340lph sufficient enough for mid 600 rwhp?

Not trying to high jack the thread or anything

I don't know much about the 340 pumps, because they were not available when I did the fuel system on my cars. I imagine a single 340 with upgraded wiring and 8AN supply line would be plenty for my 91 SC, but not enough for my 93 SC.
 

S_Mazza

Registered User
If you guys are having problems with rusted exhaust studs... then the problem is obvious... you aren't replacing your transmission often enough. :rolleyes:

High quality post! :D

I agree with you. ... The last thing I want to do is cut holes in the car. I mean, this is the Northeast. Wait long enough and the holes appear on their own. (But I am getting into next year's projects here!)
 

kenewagner

Registered User
Ken.. I think the operative word there is cut. :eek: I tend to pull that word out after I reach the word desparation. :)

About 90 % of the guys on this site, cut, bend modify and generally customize their rides. I dont have desperation in my vocabulary. I have words like modification, practicality and easy of maintenance. A dozen people can tell me all about how fast they can drop their fuel tank but no matter how you slice it, removing the rear seat bottom and removing a few screw or fasteners and removing a fuel pump requires about 5 or less minutes with no jacking up the car, no debre falling in my face, exhausts and drive shaft to deal with. Doesnt compromise the car body strength, I run over 400rwhp, so its hard for to figure the reasoning of defending dropping a fuel tank from the bottom to do a simple job. Guess there will always be Republicans vs Democrats, blue collar vs white collar and dropping fuel tanks vs not:rolleyes: Actually I dont even have a dog in the fight since I dont have a fuel tank any more to drop.:D

Ken
 

LIVipers

Registered User
Excellent! This thread is exactly what I was looking for in regards to the fuel pump. Just a quick question...how do you remove the rear seat bottom cushion? I know, silly question, but I have no idea how to do so.

Tom
 

Miller

Registered User
the people who refuse to cut an access for a fuel pump are up there with the people who re-install the bracket behind the power steering pulley ;)
 

Thinkreferrals

Registered User
I cut the floor and created a cover plate on my YJ to replace the pump (I was so thankful because I got a faulty replacement pump the first time) and I will do the same on my SC this weekend while I am installing my donor car AOD. While I still had a complete donor car, after I striped every usable part from the car, I cut out a large section of sheet metal from the rear seat so I can fashion a properly molded plate over the fuel pump access. I think with enough inserts and fasteners, this is not going to be a weak point or stress point.
 

Kobassa Power

Registered User
Fuel Pump location

Guys , please, where do you create the fuel pump access port in the back seat? I realize that this thread is an opportunity for you guys to beat your chests , share your experiences and comment on topics where you don't have all the information.

The car is leaky, very rusty, and on its last legs and not worth restoring. I want a quick fix and be able to drive it home and then to someone who can use it as a parts organ donation car instead of getting crushed.

The mechanic will charge a fortune if he has to drop the tank, and not all mechanics have forklifts.

This is the best picture and description so far
http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/smf/index.php?topic=1016.msg5018#msg5018

http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/temp/FF/DSCF5075.jpg
 
Last edited:

kenewagner

Registered User
Guys , please, where do you create the fuel pump access port in the back seat? I realize that this thread is an opportunity for you guys to beat your chests , share your experiences and comment on topics where you don't have all the information.

The car is leaky, very rusty, and on its last legs and not worth restoring. I want a quick fix and be able to drive it home and then to someone who can use it as a parts organ donation car instead of getting crushed.

The mechanic will charge a fortune if he has to drop the tank, and not all mechanics have forklifts.

This is the best picture and description so far
http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/smf/index.php?topic=1016.msg5018#msg5018

http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/temp/FF/DSCF5075.jpg

It is on the passenger side, between the slotted bracket that holds the seat on and the bump protruding up off the floor. Stay as close to the front of that area to start and you will be fine. Cut a small hole and you will see the fuel pump hat and than go from there. I would post a picture of mine but its gone since I removed that entire area with my new project.

Ken
 

S_Mazza

Registered User
Guys , please, where do you create the fuel pump access port in the back seat? I realize that this thread is an opportunity for you guys to beat your chests , share your experiences and comment on topics where you don't have all the information.

The car is leaky, very rusty, and on its last legs and not worth restoring. I want a quick fix and be able to drive it home and then to someone who can use it as a parts organ donation car instead of getting crushed.

The mechanic will charge a fortune if he has to drop the tank, and not all mechanics have forklifts.

This is the best picture and description so far
http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/smf/index.php?topic=1016.msg5018#msg5018

http://www.eastcoastrollingthunder.com/temp/FF/DSCF5075.jpg

Here's something. Not the best pic. Maybe Ken has another he could share?
 

TbirdSCFan

Registered User
Wow. Thats a HONKER of a hole. I'm going to pull the pump this wknd on my red car and I'll consider cutting an access hole for the future.
From what I recall before, lowering the tank was not hard at all. I dont recall having to do anything with the exhaust the last time. If the whole job takes me more than 1 hour, I'd be surprised.
 

Kobassa Power

Registered User
The access port has been created

I went to the mechanic's place and cut the hole into the backseat myself. I'll let him install the pump( hopefully he won't be too greedy)

I'll post pictures once all is well.
 

Jacob_Royer

SCCoA Member
I did mine last night it was easy! Just drill a hole to the left of the grommet that wires go through then you don't have to worry about hitting a line take tin snips and start cutting twords trunk. You will be able to see the top of pump at this point rest is self explanatory! You have to make a descent sized hole to get it out. No big deal some flashing from you're hardware store and silicone will seal it up.
 

Miller

Registered User
I used snips and just cut it as big as possible. It goes all the way back to where the tank gets very close to the floor, and as far forward as the seat hook.
 
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