Itching for a bit more power, MPX?

The thickness of the Morana t-chain gear and hub is less than .020 thicker than the OEM gear and spacer. The difference between the bushing flange thickness the mustang 30k mile T-chain cover and the SC cover is .013, that's more wear on the SC bushing. Again no smoking gun, but looking at the gears on my 30k mustang engine it seems like a shit design.
IMG_1475.jpgIMG_1476.jpg

I have a lead on a complete 3.8 and if that works out I have a T-chain cover I can cut up to see the gear mesh. I have no problem machining parts to get this mesh any better.

I have heard of t-chain tensioner failures and I'm wandering what people think is best, the original design or much simpler new design. I really like the new design.
IMG_1481.jpgIMG_1482.jpg

I want to get the bottom end together before I do much more with this gear issue. These engines have such tight tolerances and it sucks you can't get any .001 bearings for more oil clearances. I'm swapping shells around and struggling to get over .0006 and shooting for .002
 
Can I get some clarification on ARP torque specification with the newest lube.
Head studs 85lbs?
Main studs I see 80 and I see 110lbs??
351 rods with 8740 ARP bolts I see 60 and 63lbs any idea on stretch If I go that way.
Waiting on my next set of main bearings, trying ACL to see if they are any looser then Clevites.
 
Engine deal fell through so still looking.

ACL bearings came in and they were tight except for main #4. Moving things around this is the best I can do between ACL and Clevite
1 - .00045
2 - .00085
3 - .001
4 - .0016
Need to check crank end play and correct that because it's always too tight. Plan is to have the bottom back together for this weekend.

Pictures of a stock lower and my raised, hard to get a decent picture but trying to show how the OEM is 2/3rds blocked and mine is straight through.
IMG_1520.jpgIMG_1521.jpgIMG_1522.jpg

I started playing with my raised lower intake and I misspoke and forgot at some point I did put the triangle back in it. So I used one of those weather or HVAC velocity meters to test velocity out of each runner using the M90 to feed it and whatever RPM my large 110VAC drill spins at. It might not be the right way but its repeatable and gives me some #s and those #s correlate to the way the plugs look in those cylinders, Ill take that.

4 - 1220 -4.5% 1 - 1279
5 - 924 -28% 2 - 1023 -20%
6 - 650 -49% 3 - 1082 -15%

Cylinder #6 plug is pure black and caked and by far the worst plug, front plugs 1 & 4 are my best looking plugs by a long shot. I can see what needs to be done with cylinder #6 but I need to weld up that side because I will port right through the thin wall. Will update once I'm done.
 
Back
Top