If you have already verified that power supply & grounds to the motor are good & that the motor/pump is at fault, then yes it should. I've never had a motor/pump failure on any of mine. Its always been a electrical issue- pressure switch, relay or fuse/breaker.
If you look at the upper left of the diagram you posted, you'll answer your own question.
Pump will not work without the brake ECU. It turns on the antilock relay, which then controls or sends power to the pump motor relay. Pump motor relay is right rear of engine compartment-attached to rear of strut tower. Near A/C accumulator. The press switch is in the new pump assy you posted pic of. Think in pic there is a plastic protective cap over the connector.
Search on brake booster swap/conversion, then. Some outfits supply kits now I think. If you want to DIY, there should be alot of info/discussiion here, but as noted, that new pump/motor does you zero good without a complete system, including an ABS module.
I'd also imagine you might not have much trouble, depending on price, finding someone here to buy that new pump off you.
I couldn't say for certain but when I bought my 90 in the trunk was a box of extra parts and there was an abs computer in it but never had an issue with the one in the car so is it any good your guess is as good as mine but I do have an extra one
A LX master cylinder, brake lines & proportioning valve will be needed as well ? Not just the booster
I'm not sure if a master cylinder for a base model which is set up for drum brakes on rear ( displaces more fluid, but less pressure) will work on your rear disc brakes( less displacement needed, but more pressure)
Others on here should be able to tell you more, as I said I'm not sure.
I see what you're saying David. The pic in his 1st post does look the same as your pic.
I must be thinking of someone else that I had a conversation with that was trying to use
a Teves pump/motor from a Buick. My mistake.