After pulling the dash and replacing the A/C evaporator and heater coil on my 1990 s/c , went to start for the first time and got nothing but dash lights and buzzers , couldn't hear the brakes powering up , no click on then battery solenoid . It feels like the brake / auto trans interlock isn't working , Car started great before dash work , has new starter , battery , good cables , ignition switch has been replaced and is tight . Took off the steering column cover , the auto shift cable to the column looks to be working, any suggestions what to check next ?
No Start
- Thread starter 64th-35th
- Start date
Check the multi-wire ignition switch down on the side of the steering column. Having the steering column cover off should make this easier.
Watch that switch when turning the key to see if it looks like it wants to separate and open up.
Autozone, $20 Duralast Ignition Switch LS514
Watch that switch when turning the key to see if it looks like it wants to separate and open up.
Autozone, $20 Duralast Ignition Switch LS514
Must be a Canadian feature other that Push to Start cars (obvisouly not thunderbird) you shouldn't need to press the brake to start although if the park/neutral safety switch on the transmission or the park cable is not working properly the car believes its in gear and won't start often times if you shift to Neutral you can start it but it won't start in park thats why...
Hmm,I learned something new. I never knew for sure before. My 90 SC & 90 XR-7 both require the brake pedal to be pressed in order for starter to engage. 64th-35th's issue sounds ignition switch related, if he can't hear brake motor run when key in run postiton.
Yes , I always had to press the brake pedal to start . Sometimes I had to shift to neutral to get it to start , was always that way . That's 1 reason why I suspect the brake pedal might be the problem .The trans cable from the shifter seems to works by eye at the column while shifting the trans .
Not sure on the 90s Sc's but my 97 lx which of course has a different trans on the side of the trans where the shift linkage connects is a switch of sorts it tells the car that your in park or neutral if that is faulty might be the reason you had/have to shift to neutral but I agree the brake not charging seems like it would have to be related
So maybe 1 of the brake switchs didn't get fully plugged back in & thats causing your starting issue.
Possibly 1 of the terminals got pushed back in their connector, so even though it looks like connector is in all the way, the terminals aren't making contact. Still not sure why your brake motor isn't coming on when key is on? Must be ign switch/connector problem . Both issues may be related to the ign switch or 2 seperate things
Getting new ignition switch , checking brake connections ,thanks
Installed new Ignition switch , no change . Installed new solenoid , no change , but does spin the motor over when jumped at solenoid . Brake is pumping up , just couldn't hear it over the chiming inside the car. Went over every connection under dash , all connections are tight . Going to start taking the console out to make sure everything is good there , going back to the neutral safety switch on the trans. Brake light / all lights work also. I'll have to check back up lights tomorrow .
Could the fuel safety switch in the trunk be the problem and how do you reset it ?
No back up lights , 4 ways and turn signals work on the outside but not on the dash , going to disconnect and inspect and reconnect everything including instrument panel and main firewall bulkhead connection , fuel safety switch was ok . Onwards...
Ok with your signals and flashers not working on the cluster my opinion would be this is all a connection issue I'd start with the bulk connections I feel like you get the signals and flashers etc working it starts... I could be wrong but I'm thinking all of this worked before pulling the dash now it doesn't so it's all related to the dash being pulled... There is a safety cable going from shifter to ign housing you can unplug from the housing move it with you hands first push it it see if you get a start then pull it out try to start... I doubt that's the issue but it's possible usually when they go bad you can't turn the key all the way off to remove the key
Total agreement , thanks for your support
Are the main electrical bulkhead connector pins suppose to have dielectric grease on them ?
According to the manuf. spec sheet for dielectric grease, it is not advised to use directly on low tension/clamping connectors, only on larger points such as starter cables-to-starter. In your example, the manuf. suggests coating the mating surfaces where the shell on one slides over/outside the other...the idea is to create a moisture barrier, discouraging moisture from reaching the pins.