Operation: Replace Fuel Injectors is underway

FurryWrecker911

SCCoA Member
The weather has gotten really nice here, so I finished my work day early and got into the nitty-gritty of getting the '89 running after getting that misfire on injector 6 over and over again. It only took me an hour and a half to get the supercharger out of the way, so I must be getting better at this. Cylinder 4 so far is the only injector I got out before having to run to town to pick up dinner for the family. I'll keep wiggling the rest tomorrow and do my best to try to get them out. They are stubborn, to say the least, and my hand strength has never been the greatest.

Photos of the process included. Plan is to have everything put back together by Friday as it's going to rain all weekend, and I do not have a shelter for this. I also need to find a gasket maker that isn't an absolute pain in the butt to break free. Getting the upper charge pipe to let go of the supercharger is probably what took the most time of any of the steps.
 

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You can buy the reusable teflon seals for the charge pipes and SC seal on Ebay cheap. Makes life way easier
I have 3 of these from a kit I got in my first rebuild. This may be a silly question but how do you hold them in position? They just fall between the tubes and down to the ground the moment I let go.
 
You do have to hold or maneuver them into position until the tubes are in place, I just slid the seal over the posts then the tubes together and they were good.

I never had a problem with a leak and use these on all my cars.
 
Since you have a few threads going...are these the gaskets you're referring to? They hold in place with the studs on each pipe...what you describe sounds drastically different than how they're designed to work.
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Here's a link also... my gut tells me you're referring to that BS teflon tape jank that isn't worth throwing at an enemy.


-Tim
OH... yeah, that is completely different from what I got. I have these three rubber O-rings that are large enough to clear the inner diameter of the mating surface but small enough that they don't clear the outer diameter. It's like they have to magically rest dead-nuts in the middle of the mating surface, which I have no idea how that would work. They look like this, but black-greyish:
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I didn't get anything in that kit for the collar nut either. Looks like yours has one for it via that round one without the bolt pass-throughs, I assume. These look waaaaay better engineered for the job.
 
Throw that garbage in the trash...the above gaskets were member designed years ago and take the guessing out of things.

-Tim
Awesome. I see they also make gaskets for the hat and plenum as well. I'm going to yoink those too.
You're a godsend, Tim. I'll report back to this thread after I get the parts in and installed.
 
OH... yeah, that is completely different from what I got. I have these three rubber O-rings that are large enough to clear the inner diameter of the mating surface but small enough that they don't clear the outer diameter. It's like they have to magically rest dead-nuts in the middle of the mating surface, which I have no idea how that would work. They look like this, but black-greyish:
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I didn't get anything in that kit for the collar nut either. Looks like yours has one for it via that round one without the bolt pass-throughs, I assume. These look waaaaay better engineered for the job.
From what I have read on the forum, those O-rings aren’t meant to seal the tubes to the intercooler. The collars on charging tubes are threaded on the tubes and the o-rings seal them together, but I wouldnt try to change them
 
Why would you take the charge tube apart from the top when you can easily remove the four bolts in the top and take the tube with it .

The seals work well never had a problem on many cars.
 
Why would you take the charge tube apart from the top when you can easily remove the four bolts in the top and take the tube with it .

The seals work well never had a problem on many cars.
Because I grew tired of dealing with scraping and reapplying RTV every time I take it off. I didn't know a reusable gasket existed until I started down this particular repair job. Next time I pull the hat off I'm gonna just use the gasket going forward, but for now it's glued on once more.
 
Back at it once more. Had a burst of restlessness and tore into the pipes this evening. Throttle response is MUCH happier now. The idle is still total garbage though. I put the OBD1 reader on it, it passed all its sensor checks during KOEO without issue, and gave me the same "misfire cylinder 6" error with KOER. I shut it off, swapped plugs again, threw the first of the six Livewire replacement plugs on it, still spitting out "misfire cylinder 6."

I haven't a clue what to do now aside from loading the parts cannon and firing at the DIS, Cam position sensor, and the fuel rail pressure regulator. It runs happy when you give it gas and get moving! It just shakes non-rhythmically when idling.
 

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I don't think any of those things(dis,cam sensor, press regu) would cause a missfire just on one specific cylinder? coil #3 fires cyl 6 & cyl 2 at the same, so also verify # 2's plug & wire condition. It may be drawing voltage down to the point there isn't enough for #6. Possibly a mechanical issue-low compression on 6? Just my 2 cent's
 
Coil #3 fires cyl 6 & cyl 2 at the same, so also verify # 2's plug & wire condition. It may be drawing voltage down to the point there isn't enough for #6. Possibly a mechanical issue-low compression on 6?
I have doubts it's a draw issue since the spark tester was as bright as the sun on cylinder 6, but I like the suggestion. I didn't know the corresponding coils were tied to each other! Nifty. I'll rent a compression tester when I got time and lift the car to get to the passenger side plugs and try to run compression tests. I had a friend suggest a faulty IAC too, but it still doesn't make sense that it'd only spit out a Cyl 6 error and nothing more.

Man, I miss having a garage. Moreso I miss having a concrete pad. lol
 
That teflon stuff leaks and is garbage on anything other than stock ! Expecially the top which is typically warped ! just clean and a nice thin film of black rtv call it done will never leak
 
I have the teflon seals on three cars . One stock, another with 350 to the wheel, another considerably more . I don't drive them much but luckily I've never had an issue.
The Anerobic sealer, it works but it's too much of a pain. If these give me problems I will switch .
 

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Update. Doublechecked fuel. Fuel is fine. 40 psi on key on, 34 psi on idle. That rules that out.

I did get a new odd symptom though, the engine started to "whistle" during the KOER test this time (I couldn't figure out where exactly it was coming from. It echoed everywhere), and when it was done it went from a rhytmic misfire to completely falling on its face and sputtering. I flicked the butterfly valve which brought it back, but it was trying it's worst to completely die on me with an inconsistent shake.

Past That I noticed the throttle body position sensor is jiggle-able, and the ufo disk thingy everyone deletes is disconnected from the passenger side manifold more than normal (It's never been fully seated as long as I've owned the car). I attached photos of both.

Coil #3 fres cyl 6 & cyl 2 at the same time
Going back to this, could I theoretically swap the coil end of the spark wires to see if the problem migrates from Cylinder 6 to Cylinder 2? I don't forsee it helping in this case given circumstances, but now I'm curious.
 

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Update again: it's sputtering out of that open bung on the passenger manifold. Sounds like a tractor exhaust popping off. EGR delete time? :D
 
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