Possibility of HG leaking?

35th

Registered User
I labeled and bagged absolutely everything as well and yeah they love to hide nuts and bolts the heads have some bolts all the way at the rear of them on the drivers side there are 2 actually one for the fuel pressure regulator bracket so you can get the fuel rail up and another for a ground strap also part of the harness for the fuel injectors on the passenger side there's 1 for the throttle body heater line
 

weasel318

Registered User
Oh the ground strap might be the one holding up my harness. I couldnt see the bolt. I will investigate it. I will try to remove it tmrw since i want to get the harness out. Might replace it since I have to resplice the TPS and IAC. Rats and Squirrels ate the wiring there.

Edit: I mean today. Forgot its after midnight.
 

35th

Registered User
Not for sure but I think it is a 13 or a 10 mm but very very important ground make sure if you paint the head or anything it's a clean contact point KMT from here has asked me and lots of others when hunting electrical issue to check that particular ground
 

weasel318

Registered User
Probably will just clean everything with degrease. The only thing I would paint would be the valve covers probably.
 

weasel318

Registered User
Thank you!

Quick question, Are the intake manifold bolts suppose to be rusty for some and full of gunk on others?

also are the Head Bolts suppose to be dry? I had one come out dry? The rest were oily or dripping with oil?

Also everything is off. I will update more later. But surprised it didnt show a constant stream of bubble. 4 out of 6 cylinders had a bad combustion chamber fire ring. I will try to post pics later and do a longer update.
 

35th

Registered User
Mine where the same as far as intake bolts some weren't really even tight which is concerning hoping they aren't stripped which is something I still have to check into
 

weasel318

Registered User
Mine were super tight, a few of them with gunk on it needed a long ratchet to get enough leverage on it to back it out after i broke it loose already.

And a correction, all six combustion chamber fire ring was damaged, 2 was severely damaged, 2 was moderate, and 2 was slight (have to really look to see it)
 

35th

Registered User
Yeah my front ones are really funky had a hard time just sliding the threads through the intake
 

35th

Registered User
So was doing some prep work for reassembly when I get my heads back from the machine shop my fuel injectors are in pretty terrible shape the plastic caps where they go into the intake are cracked on is totally missing so make sure you check those before you reassemble and have leaking injectors after doing all that other work I just ordered a new set.... Not real happy about that a necessity yes certainly unplanned
 

KMT

Registered User
I expected to need injectors when I did my heads - had witchhunters sort thru 9 used from me that yielded 6 usable for recon'ding. MPH went from 15 hwy to 25.
 

35th

Registered User
Well as in most projects that I start I think I've thought of everything only to find out I didn't think of something major just frustrating mostly at myself for not being better prepared
 

weasel318

Registered User
Yea I took those in to get them rebuilt already. Thanx for the tip! I always do injectors when I have them disassembled. Theres a local shop in the area that does them for 25 bucks per injector.

Also took in my heads today to get them resurfaced and valve job.

Going to call in to ARP and see what prices I can get for the hardware.

I do have 1 question regarding the lower intake manifold bolts. Can they be replaced with flanged ones? I was thinking about using some ARP flanged bolt with washer instead of the simple hex one?
 

35th

Registered User
I would think as long as the bolt is rated for strength that is similar to the oem ones it wouldn't matter unless that poses a clearance issue somehow
 

weasel318

Registered User
Not sure why Ford went with a Hex head without a flange on it for these intake manifold bolts? I feel like the flange ones should distribute the load better and also more consistently
 

KMT

Registered User
Also took in my heads today to get them resurfaced and valve job.
I suggest you ask if they can do an RA20 finish on the mating surface. Search here for deets on: RA20

feel like the flange ones should distribute the load

As for the manifold bolts, I think the main consideration is maintaining clamping across heat cycles. Not a big load with the low torque. I used 22# when I did my heads, OE fasteners. Don't get creative ;) Try to include a step during assembly that lets you triple check bolt torque, such as stopping there over nite, then repeat before moving on. Not easy to get to the intake bolt heads once the engine is assembled.
 

weasel318

Registered User
I feel like the clamping force might be rectify by changing to flange bolts since the current ones are just hex bolts. The hex bolts came out alright but they have alot of junk on the threads and some rust. If getting some arp flanged bolts doesnt mess anything up and can maintain the torque better I would rather spend a few extra bucks and swap them out.

Also the hex bolts seems to not go on the socket straight and might affect torque figures plus arp bolts seems so pretty :D> LOL
 

35th

Registered User
Finally putting it back together machine shop said 3-4 days and a little over two weeks and they got them done today got the heads on and intake on hopefully I did it right gonna Finish it up tomorrow if I'd known it would take this long for the machine shop I might would have gotten rollers.... Eh to dream I suppse
 
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