Powder Coating Questions & Answers

Powder Coating Answers

ok..Powdercoating magnesium :O)

Ok, smart a##. here goes::p

One needs to be carful when powder coating either tempered aluminum or magnesium, as both these substrates can be affected by the heat used to cure the powder coating. We don't have to worry about the magnesium catching fire, as the cure tempertures used for organic powder coatings are much lower than this ignition point. However, you can forget about removing powder coating from magnesium using thermal stripping methods (burn-off ovens), as this will catch the metal on fire!:eek:

So the trick becomes how do you cure powder coating on temperature sensistive metal substrates. As a definition, these metals are tempered (heat treated) alluminum and magnesium only, as heat treated steels have much higher tempering temperatures (above 1000 degrees F). Well, the answer is to use the lowest cure temperture provided by the powder formulator (supplier). As I stated in earlier answers in the thread, all powder coatings have a cure curve that shows time/temperature relationships that will cure the coating. This general cure principle shows that this curve starts at the lowest temperture for the longest time and goes to the highest temperature for the shortest time. Therfore to protect the heat temper on your alimunum and magnesium parts, you should choose a cure temperture no higher than 300 degrees. You will find that the cure time might be 30 minutes, or more, at this temperture, but it is better than annealing your aluminum or magnesium metal part.:rolleyes:

Oh yeah, don't foget to add the time it takes to bring your metal up to this temperature to determine your total oven cycle time!;)

I bet you thought you had me stumped with this question, didn't you?:D
 
NAHHHHHHHHHHHHH haha Going to Carlisle? I dont see you preregistered!!!!

Actually I think a huge problem for us automotive guys is that powdercoat places generally just throw our parts in with thier other commercial stuff. Very litle care is taken in special prep or temperatures. I was thinking about getting a home setup together and experiementing. I get allot fo stuff done so the investment would be minimal for what I geeneral spend having someoen else do it!
 
NAHHHHHHHHHHHHH haha Going to Carlisle? I dont see you preregistered!!!!

Actually I think a huge problem for us automotive guys is that powdercoat places generally just throw our parts in with thier other commercial stuff. Very litle care is taken in special prep or temperatures. I was thinking about getting a home setup together and experiementing. I get allot fo stuff done so the investment would be minimal for what I geeneral spend having someoen else do it!

Still on the fence aboutCarlisle, as I may have a business travel conflict.

Finding the right shop to perform small batch powder coating takes some effort. These businesses, called job shops, cater to a variety of customers. Some shops only do large coating jobs for business (industrial customers) while others specialize in small automotive work. Occasionally some shops do both kinds of work, although on different types of equipment.

The larger shops look at small automotive (or small motorcycle for that matter) powder coating projects as a nusiance, as it interupts their larger projects. These types of job shops should be avoided, as they may not provide the type of service you want.

Fins a smaller shop that caters to small automotive and motorcycle work. They charge a lot more for each job, but they perform small projects with an eye towards high quality, as most are car guys too.:D

For future reference, go to www.powdercoating.org (the Powder Coating Institute) www.pcoating.com (Powder Coating Magazine), and www.pfonline.com (Products Finishing Magazine) as they all have a list of "job shops" or "custom coaters" by geographical area. Some of these sites even describe the type of work they do or the size parts they can handle. Stay away from the high production shops and you will get good service.:)
 
How to select a powder coating

ok...So serious question. WHat is the most durable type of powdercoating for engine componants.

Generally the following guidelines apply to powder coating properties:

Epoxy is very durable, oil and chemical resistent, but has no UV (sunlight) resistance. It will chalk readily in sunlight and look like bad aluminum siding in about 3 to 4 weeks. This low-cost material is often used on underhood and undercarriage parts where sunlight is not a problem.:)

Polyesters (TGIC or urethanes) have good durability (but not as good as epoxy), do not have great oil & chemical resistance, but have great UV resistance. This medium cost material is used on exterior trim parts and wheels.:)

Epoxy/polyester hybrids have some properties of both materials. They are not as durable as pure epoxy and not as UV resistent as polyester (just slightly better than epoxy). They are cheaper than polyester, but slightly more expensive than epoxy. The UV resistance is not sufficient to be used anywhere but on some hidden interior trim and underhood/undercarriage parts.:)

Acrylics are very hard (scratch resistent) and have superior UV resistance. These powders are often used in OEM wheel coatings. However, because they are catastrophically incompatable with polyester powders, no small shops spray them. :eek:

Choosing a powder by formula type may not be easy for the hobbyist due to availability from Eastwood and others. However, most job shops buy their powders directly from the formulator and can purchase whatever you want.:cool:

Now you can choose a powder for your application based upon your requirements and pocketbook.:p
 
Time for a friendly bump to the top.

I thought that I would bump this thread back to the top, just to let you all know that I am still here. Free advice for Powder Coating! At least until I go on vacation in August!:D
 
Have you ever tried to coat the plastic 4.6 2v valve covers? Can it be done with low heat? Or does it need the liquid coating?
 
Powder Coating Plastic

Have you ever tried to coat the plastic 4.6 2v valve covers? Can it be done with low heat? Or does it need the liquid coating?

There are low-temperature cure powder coatings on the market. However, even these require heating the part to at least 250 degrees F to melt the powder and form the coating, then the coating can be cured using UV or low temperature heat (> or = 250 F) depending upon powder formulation. Remember, unless you melt the powder you will never have a coating just powder particles, ergo "powder coating".:rolleyes:

Most plastics have a hard time handling the 250 degree F powder coating melt temperature. I am not sure what the 4.6 2V valve covers are made from, but I would guess that they could not handle the powder coating melt temperature.

The powder formulators (coating manufacturers) have not spent very much R&D developing coatings for plastics, as the main features of powder coatings (i.e. toughness, corrosion protection, etc.) do not apply to plastics since they inherently have these features without coating.:cool:

Considering that most people want to coat their plastic part to change or improve the color, the best bet is a good, durable, and flexible liquid paint. Visit an auto body supply house for their recommendations on which paint to buy. Scuff the plastic with a Scotchbrite pad and use a good prep solvent to clean the part before painting, taking care to fill any voids or surface imperfections. Using standard auto body preparation and painting techniques will be your best bet.:D
 
Powder Coating Questions Requested

Just a friendly bump, as it has been some time since anyone asked a Powder Coating question. I am starting to get bored. ;)

So...anyone want to play "stump the consultant"? :p
 
Ok..So those clear with a tint powders. Can they be applied directly over a polished surface? Not really a stump question but I always figured there withd be durability issues without a rough surface to apply teh powder to.
 
Tinted Clears Over Smooth Polished Parts

Ok..So those clear with a tint powders. Can they be applied directly over a polished surface? Not really a stump question but I always figured there withd be durability issues without a rough surface to apply teh powder to.

The trick with using tinted clears is to have the surface prepared to ensure that the final product provides the look you want. By definition "clears", tinted or otherwise, will show what is underneath them. Most people prefer to have the metal surface polished to a mirror to have a tinted mirror finish as the final result after coating. :cool:

Now just because you polish a surface does not mean tha you cannot obtain good coating adhesion. Although tinted clear parts are typically used in appearance locations on a vehicle and are not used in high abuse functional areas that require extremely great adhesion, you still need sufficient adhesion to ensure you are not recoating the part every year. To ensure good adhesion of any coating you must clean the part very well. Polished parts often have reminants of the polishing compound (rouge, polish, wax, and the like) that must be completely removed before coating. Be preapared to use a good cleaner and plenty of elbow grease to get the part completely clean. If the part is properly cleaned, you should not have a problem with adhesion.

Now let's discuss a part you want to have tinted clear that is used in a high-abuse area on your car (i.e. engine or chassis hardware). For this appiclation I would recommend that you clean the part, blast the surface for a good anchor pattern and then powder coat the part with a high gloss smooth silver (like a mirror chrome look-a-like coating). Now you can apply a tinted clear over this coating, have a great looking part that is very durable, and still look smooth and have a mirror finish. ;)

Thanks for the "softball" question. :p
 
It has been some time since I bumped my own thread.:eek:

So here goes...time to play "stump the consultant!" :D

Ask you free question & get your answer...Answers are guaranteed to be of equal value!!!:p
 
Hmmmm Best powder type for wheel applications. Not a stump question. Just seems allot of coaters I run into dont seem to understand the different types so much
 
Hmmmm Best powder type for wheel applications. Not a stump question. Just seems allot of coaters I run into dont seem to understand the different types so much

Good one. Cause the stuff mine where done with are cracking and flaking off.
 
Have you ever tried to coat the plastic 4.6 2v valve covers? Can it be done with low heat? Or does it need the liquid coating?

If you need a set to test I have a half dozen I could spare one. I think they would handle 250° as the engine runs pretty close to that without damaging them at all. I always see the caps destroyed by the heat but the valve covers look ok.
Alan
 
If you need a set to test I have a half dozen I could spare one. I think they would handle 250° as the engine runs pretty close to that without damaging them at all. I always see the caps destroyed by the heat but the valve covers look ok.
Alan

I'll take you up on that offer. Pick em up from you when I'm in ohio next if you are there too. If not i'll get you paid for shipping.
 
Back
Top