Removing the whole dash--how to?


SCCoA Member
Thinking about grabbing a whole dash out of a 97 at the junkyard as a spare for my car. Anyone have a guide/pics on how to remove it?


SCCoA Member
Under the hood, driver’s side unbolt the main bulkhead connector (10mm) and push in the clips that hold the dash harness to the firewall, and push that connector back into the car. Next go to the passenger side and pull back the inner fender to get to the antenna wire. Disconnect it from the antenna and push the grommet through into the car. Now open the passenger door, pull back the weatherstripping and remove the kick panel. There are a few electrical connectors behind the kick panel that need to be unhooked, but no need to mess with the ECM wiring. There are 2 bolts, I think 14 or 15mm, one is at the bottom of the dash behind the kick panel, and the other is about 6” above it, accessed by dropping the glove box. While the glove box is down, disconnect the vacuum/electrical/cable connections to the HVAC unit. Pop the trim off the A-pillar, then pop the one off the top front of the dash and there are several 8mm bolts going across that area that hold the top of the dash to the firewall. Now go around to the driver’s side. Again pull back the weatherstripping and pull the kick panel. Now crawl under the driver’s side dash. There will be a few electrical connections behind the left kick panel, including another connector with a 10mm bolt in the center. Next remove the 13mm bolt holding the steering column to the steering shaft, and slide the shaft down out of the column. If you are concerned about the clockspring, now is the time to secure the wheel to the column somehow (duct tape works well as long as you don’t leave it on too long). Now sit in the driver’s seat, get the rest of the bolts along the top that you couldn’t get from the passenger side, then remove the center console. Unplug the white connector at the bottom center of the dash that goes down through the floor, then remove the 2 10 or 11mm nuts at the bottom center of the dash. At this point, the dash is fully disconnected. Recline both seats, pull the dash away from the firewall, and have a 2nd person grab the other side and pull it out the driver’s side while watching to make sure none of the wiring gets caught, and then you’re done.


SCCoA Member
Yeah its not too hard. I got one out of the yard once by myself with not alot of room to open the doors. Didn't crack it either.


SCCoA Member
Rod has a writeup on dash-swapping a 89-93 dash for a 94+....I think on TCCoA. That may help you locate the bolts that need removed.

Basically, there are 8mm bolts along the windshield, beneath trim that need removed, a couple of studs/nuts on the tranmission tunnel and then about 4-5 bolts or studs/nuts on each lower A-pillar. Then there are the electrical connectors, climate control vacuum lines, etc. Like Chris said, it's not too hard.


Registered User
I've taken mine out 4 or 5 times I'll post a few pics to help out these are out of a 97 thunderbird Lx don't need to take out the radio or heat air controls you will need to remove the center arm rest to access those lower center dash bolts mentioned above at this point I can do this in about an hour but couldn't do a very good job of explaining in words also right at your knee in the drivers seat you can pull the column out separately to access the main harness through the firewall also will help to lighten up the weight of the dash not having it attached and if your worried about the clock spring in the steering wheel then take the key out of the ignition and lock the wheel which will prevent it from turning I belive I took these photos the 1st time I pulled the dash out and found out later I didn't need to pull the passenger air bag


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