Running very rich

Jweeks

Registered User
I have a 89 sc when my car is running it puffs out alot of white smoke and it smells just like gas seems to idle alittle rough.
I do have a CEL I tried cleaning the maf and throttle body took the CEL off for alittle bit ran alittle better didn't smoke as much but came back. my car has headers with no cats but I'm pretty positive the back 02s are still on..would that make it run super rich?
I don't think I have any vacuum leaks at idle I'm in-between 10-20 of vacuum. I'm assuming the plugs are fouled at this point. So I'm planning on new plugs and wires, possibly fuel filter
Would a bad supercharger make it run rich or lean? Mine does make a weird sound in the snout everyonce in awhile does change tone of the engine. I do have a replacement SC
I'm waiting on a code reader in the mail for the Tbird to see if I can see what codes it's reading.

It is sitting for the winter just would like some ideas where to start! Thanks!
 
A lot of possibility's really. Wait until you are able to read codes, rather then clearing them & see what direction that takes you.
Your car only has 1 O2 sensor per bank, there is no "back" White smoke can be from coolant being burned.
 
Sounds like a head gasket issue. Early Ford EEC-lV systems didn't give sensor data. With a head gasket failure, you will often get multiple codes, that are the result of coolant in the combustion chamber. You have OBD1 EEC-lV diagnostics. Your smartest move, (and probably cheapest), Would be to get your SC to a good independent automotive shop, that has someone that knows the early Ford systems. I good tech should be able to diagnose the problem in an a hour.
 
I had a BAP sensor fail once. EEC thought the car was at sea level and I was 6000'+. It ran really rich then, but no smoke like you're seeing. As has been mentioned, white smoke often a sign of antifreeze . . .
 
white smoke and it smells just like gas

I'd suggest you do a test for combustion gasses at the coolant expansion tank. If there is an Autozone nearby, that test kit used to be on the 'free tool rentals' list. No need to guess or teardown to confirm.

When the test is done correctly, and the results show combustion gasses are present, you can have actionable evidence of a blown headgasket (common) or cracked head (rare enough), etc. Expect at least one O2 sensor to be contaminated.

Good luck.
 
I did do a combustion gas leak test today, safe to say it did not turn yellow as I tested it i waited for fans to turn on and thermostat to open. I did the test at the expansion tank followed all the steps on the instructions and it stayed blue..
still smells like gas and running rich wasn't puffing fumes as it was before.. could've just been humidity from it being winter here and it being its first start this winter, maybe I'm overthinking it..
Still waiting on code reader but one thing I did notice was when I unplugged my MAF nothing changed no change in the engine tone or anything plugged back in and nothing changed is this a sign of a faulty MAF?
I'd suggest you do a test for combustion gasses at the coolant expansion tank. If there is an Autozone nearby, that test kit used to be on the 'free tool rentals' list. No need to guess or teardown to confirm.

When the test is done correctly, and the results show combustion gasses are present, you can have actionable evidence of a blown headgasket (common) or cracked head (rare enough), etc. Expect at least one O2 sensor to be contaminated.
 
Have you made an effort to inspect/clean the MAF? As I recall, if you disconnect the harness at the MAF with the engine running, you should be able to notice a change in idle speed, that at least demonstrates the MAF I was online and communicating w/the ECU. I believe the MAF is one the devices the engine can run without...the ECU uses default look up tables so you can at least limp to the nearest dealer/service center.

Might want to inspect at the air filter, intake tube to verify they are clear...critters love to hide stuff in hollow spaces...

10 in vacuum at idle is something that would prompt me to try to find out why, but the closer it is to 20, the better.
 
Yes, I have cleaned the MAF and throttle body just a couple weeks ago and seemed to help somewhat. I did put a new air filter on around the same time, i did put fuel and injector cleaner through the tank filled with 93.
I Did not notice a change in idle when uplugging the maf or plugging it back in

ill have to wait to read the codes and see what that says.
it sits around 15 vac at idle..
 
Cam sensor possibly. Code you will get for that is 214 i believe. You can jump the test port in the engine bay and count the engine light flashes to get the codes.
 
I tried reading the codes a couple days ago I bought an adapter to obd2 to the ford 7 pin on these cars. Now my reader turns on when I plug it in I hear something click upfront near the air box would be (pcm, ecu?).And my reader goes black and doesn't give me any codes.‍ bad connection, not reading the pcm/ecu?( I am unsure what module it is up front by air box that clicks when i plug my code reader in..) my only thought is the obd adapter I bought doesn't work and I need a real ford reader or something with the connection. UGH!
 
How would you jump the test port? Similar to the OBD1 90s style? With the 2 point key to test it?
 
What you hear clicking is 1 or more relay's inside the IRCM (Intergrated Relay Control Module)
I know during self test it will engage the low & high speed fan relay's which are inside it. The other 2
are for the fuel pump & the ecm. 24 wire connector, so maybe has more functions then that?
 
Thank you, I was unsure what module that was. I'll have to do alittle more research.

Now if something is going on with those relays will it still read the codes? I know before I bought the car something was done to the fans and only turns on when the engine exceeds a certain temp.(high fan mode I think) Haven't seen the low fan speed turn on to my knowledge
 
The fact that the relay(s) are clicking leads me to believe that your reader is
able to comminicate with the ECM & is initiating a self test of all systems.

I've also been told it's really hard on the fan motor &/or high speed relay to go
directly from off to high. The low speed is supposed to already be on before high energizes.
So, you've got some other issues going on there unrelated to your rich condition. Just my thoughts
though, see what others here think.
 
I tried reading the codes a couple days ago I bought an adapter to obd2 to the ford 7 pin on these cars. Now my reader turns on when I plug it in I hear something click upfront near the air box would be (pcm, ecu?).And my reader goes black and doesn't give me any codes.‍ bad connection, not reading the pcm/ecu?( I am unsure what module it is up front by air box that clicks when i plug my code reader in..) my only thought is the obd adapter I bought doesn't work and I need a real ford reader or something with the connection. UGH!

I'm confused what you are using to read the codes. Looks like you are using an adaptor cable from OBD1 to OBD2 and trying to scan with an OBD2 code reader. Not sure your code reader is compatible with your 89 SC. Suggest getting this code reader.

 
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I got the code reader you have linked up above. I have finally gotten all of the codes, codes are
22(Manifold Absolute/Baro Pressure Sensor out of range)
66(Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor circuit out of range (low)
67(Clutch Switch circuit failed (3.8L SC only)
82 (Supercharger By-pass Solenoid circuit failure (3.8L SC only)
98 (Hard Fault present).
There is a lot going on, and quite frankly I do not know where to start with all those codes. I'm planning to find another MAF, but the other codes I am lost on and will have to do more research.
 
I noticed something that you said.. You ran injector cleaner and filled it up with 93...you should always be putting 93 in it and nothing less I hope that's what your doing less than 93 isn't good for these cars at all
 
I have always used 93 premium yes. Would it mean that the ecu/ecm is faulty and I would need a replacement?
 
I got the code reader you have linked up above. I have finally gotten all of the codes, codes are
22(Manifold Absolute/Baro Pressure Sensor out of range)
66(Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor circuit out of range (low)
67(Clutch Switch circuit failed (3.8L SC only)
82 (Supercharger By-pass Solenoid circuit failure (3.8L SC only)
98 (Hard Fault present).
There is a lot going on, and quite frankly I do not know where to start with all those codes. I'm planning to find another MAF, but the other codes I am lost on and will have to do more research.

Always start with the first code reported - I see you ranked them by #...did they hit the code reader in that order? Did you have a chance to get the engine up to temp before reading codes? Did you goose it when told to do so by the code reader?
 
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