SC 3.8 partial teardown and rebuild.

Having to change plans. Will be using a T-bird ecm for simplicity. However, I need to know what kind of signal pin #48 (idm/tach) sends. Not sure how that will work with my factory tach. Ranger is a 98.
My 1990 book shows pin #48 at ECM as Self Test Input (STI). Yours is a 93 though?
 
Having to change plans. Will be using a T-bird ecm for simplicity. However, I need to know what kind of signal pin #48 (idm/tach) sends. Not sure how that will work with my factory tach. Ranger is a 98.
I would also like info here as I have no tach. I tried my old Sun tach but the shown rpm was incorrect.
 
Need to change resistance to get the rpm correct. Some ford tachs had a little pill you could change or even dip switch settings to get rpm correct for 4-6-8 cylinder. I’m sure one of the pages dedicated to 5.0 swapped rangers has a write up on it.
 
What trans is the Ranger & have you already researched the compatibility with the S/C engine?
If manual, issue's with flywheel/clutch combo to trans input shaft diameter & spline may be a problem?
I really don't know myself & if you have already replied to this in one of your post's I must have missed it.
 
What trans is the Ranger & have you already researched the compatibility with the S/C engine?
If manual, issue's with flywheel/clutch combo to trans input shaft diameter & spline may be a problem?
I really don't know myself & if you have already replied to this in one of your post's I must have missed it.
Sorry, just now saw this. I'll be using a M5OD from a jelly bean F150 with a 4.2

Main issue now is getting ahold of parts. I just put up a wanted ad in the classifieds section for an ecm harness, as it's the only thing I haven't found yet. I've got a pump, and will most likely use a Stang alt, as they are easier to find. Ac compressor I haven't gotten yet. Need a few brackets and an intercooler, but that setup will be totally custom. Haven't decided on the rad fan yet. If I could keep it mechanical, that would be cool. Maybe a clutch and fan from an Explorer 302 would work, as they were laterally compressed in every dimension.
 
Heads are back on.

Went to put the lifters in, and noticed after soaking them in oil that 5 of them can be pressed in about 1/16". Guessing that would be considered collapsed or about to be.

Also, the rockers have some noticeable wear. They have the characteristic ridges.

Real question is, should I replace them? This is already getting very expensive, and I have a huge list of parts I still need to get.
 
Went to put the lifters in, and noticed after soaking them in oil that 5 of them can be pressed in about 1/16". Guessing that would be considered collapsed or about to be.
That would indicate they are full of oil. I took all of my lifters apart, just to get the cruddy oil out of them. Later I replaced a few from a low mileage 5.0, that I had apart. I never soaked them in oil, but pre-oiled the engine, and turned it over a few times, while watching for oil coming up, and filling rockers.
 
This is already getting very expensive, and I have a huge list of parts I still need to get.
What do consider expensive? What do you still need to source? It might be a good idea to start fitting everything before moving forward with more purchases. The fitment process could end pushing cost above what you are comfortable spending on the project.
 
What do consider expensive? What do you still need to source? It might be a good idea to start fitting everything before moving forward with more purchases. The fitment process could end pushing cost above what you are comfortable spending on the project.
If I could I would. It would be ideal. The Ranger is my daily, and I won't be tearing it apart until the engine is ready to go in. When it's torn apart, I'll be driving my gas sucking big block powered 3/4 ton, if I don't have to work a second job to keep fuel in it.

My definition of expensive is probably lower than anyone else's here. I work retail, so it is what it is.
 
If I could I would. It would be ideal. The Ranger is my daily, and I won't be tearing it apart until the engine is ready to go in. When it's torn apart, I'll be driving my gas sucking big block powered 3/4 ton, if I don't have to work a second job to keep fuel in it.

My definition of expensive is probably lower than anyone else's here. I work retail, so it is what it is.
I understand that. My SC dream is 17 years in the making and finally becoming a reality this year.
 
Intake is back on. Ended up using the lifters and rockers. Had my machinist look at them and he wasn't concerned. We'll find out.

New problem: I have 2 bad injectors. This engine sat for 11 years before I got it. The injectors all had powdered rust sitting on top of them. I'd replace them all, but wow that isn't cheap.
 
Intake is back on. Ended up using the lifters and rockers. Had my machinist look at them and he wasn't concerned. We'll find out.

New problem: I have 2 bad injectors. This engine sat for 11 years before I got it. The injectors all had powdered rust sitting on top of them. I'd replace them all, but wow that isn't cheap.
If you didn't , you may want to pull the injectors filter screens and replace them before you run fuel pressure threw them , that powdered rust can eventually find its way threw and mess up the injector .
I had 18 30lb injectors here, ended up with only 8 that flowed properly after running them threw the flow/cleaner machine... some did not even activate at all .
 
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