SCCoA Billet License Plate Frames

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Slater85

SCCoA Member
I've been asked to reproduce this SCCoA Plate for the club. This will be something i'll make once my Door Sill buy closes. I have the basic design copied including the bird on top and a SCCoA font as close to the original as possible. The only big change I made was the Countersunk Screws. I think running some flat screws( which i'll provide ) would really be a clean look.

These won't be some thin plates that just lay on top of your license plate. I'm thinking of making it from 1/4" material, all the edges will be radiused and the back of the frame will be recessed so your actual license plate will sit inside.

Finish: I don't think there will be alot of options on finish, so the point of this thread is to figure out a finish or two that will appeal to most. The originals were a smoke grey anodize and then machine engraved after. I can offer that if that's what is wanted, or a polish and clear. Black Contrast is an option like my sills the only problem with Black anodize is the Sun really beats it up and it changes color fast if you don't maintain it (i.e waxing and polishing).

Price: Probably $50-60 bucks, as always finish and quantity will affect this. Upside of me making the stuff is no minimum.

SCCoAPLATE.jpg
SCCOAPLATEB.JPG
The registered trademark is at the far right of the SCCoA it may get cut off depending on screen size.
SCPL1B.JPG
SCPL2B.JPG
SCPL3.JPG
 
You are definitely correct about the fading. That frame above was originally black anodized and has been on my car for about 20 years. I think it is about a 1/4" thick, but I'd have to measure to confirm.

I think the countersunk screws will be cleaner, but in my case the standard hole gives me a little wiggle room to shift my plate up and the frame down to expose part of my renewal tag (which is now required to be on the lower right corner of the plate). As I typed that, I realized I can enlarge the license plate holes and essentially accomplish the same thing. Will the countersunk screws have the same threads as the standard screws?
 
Kurt K said:
You are definitely correct about the fading. That frame above was originally black anodized and has been on my car for about 20 years. I think it is about a 1/4" thick, but I'd have to measure to confirm.

I think the countersunk screws will be cleaner, but in my case the standard hole gives me a little wiggle room to shift my plate up and the frame down to expose part of my renewal tag (which is now required to be on the lower right corner of the plate). As I typed that, I realized I can enlarge the license plate holes and essentially accomplish the same thing. Will the countersunk screws have the same threads as the standard screws?
Click to expand...

Yeah, if the contrast look is what everyone wants im thinking black powder vs. black anodize would be better. Thanks for pointing out the screws Kurt, the plan was to use the same thread as the stock ones but after measuring these I might have a little trouble sourcing them...
 
I use license plate anti-theft screws (allen head?), but they are all button type.
 
Minnesota plates look like this, note the year and month of expiration in the lower left and right corners. They are not allowed to be obscured. And we have to have front and rear plates.
1977licenseplate.jpg
 
Slater85 said:
Yeah, if the contrast look is what everyone wants im thinking black powder vs. black anodize would be better. Thanks for pointing out the screws Kurt, the plan was to use the same thread as the stock ones but after measuring these I might have a little trouble sourcing them...
Click to expand...

I thought the threads might be a problem.

For Powder Coating: Will the edge between the powder coating and the machined groove cause the powder coating to degrade more easily.

Mike8675309 said:
Minnesota plates look like this, note the year and month of expiration in the lower left and right corners. They are not allowed to be obscured. And we have to have front and rear plates.
1977licenseplate.jpg
Click to expand...
Mike,

Missouri plates are similar now, but when I originally got the plate holder, the month and year tags were on top. Since the year tags change colors every year, I just run mine partially blocked. If yours don't change colors, I could see that it could be a problem.

And we are "supposed" to run front plates too :D
 
Kurt K said:
I thought the threads might be a problem.

For Powder Coating: Will the edge between the powder coating and the machined groove cause the powder coating to degrade more easily.


Mike,

Missouri plates are similar now, but when I originally got the plate holder, the month and year tags were on top. Since the year tags change colors every year, I just run mine partially blocked. If yours don't change colors, I could see that it could be a problem.

And we are "supposed" to run front plates too :D
Click to expand...

I'm glad that both TX & CT both have done away with plate stickers and CT has done away with the windshield stickers for Emissions and Inspection. (Still have to have 2 plates)Now DOD has done away with bumper/window installation decals. Keeps them getting stolen.
I'd be down for a set of the black powder coat. I'd probably clear coat it or paint the engraving to seal the edges of the engraving.
MikeH
 
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Slater85 said:
Yeah, if the contrast look is what everyone wants im thinking black powder vs. black anodize would be better. Thanks for pointing out the screws Kurt, the plan was to use the same thread as the stock ones but after measuring these I might have a little trouble sourcing them...
Click to expand...

I like the contrast look and would be happy with either black anodize or powder coat. I'm in for one.

David
 
Minnesota needs front and rear plates. Only the year sticker changes both the year and the color, the month sticker is static. Cops basically keep track of the color for the last year, the current year and the next year and instantly pull over those that don't match any of those. And front plates are required in MN.

Collector plates have the word collector across the bottom of the plate with no years. Other than I drive it every day my 90 could run collector plates.
 
Mike8675309 said:
Minnesota needs front and rear plates. Only the year sticker changes both the year and the color, the month sticker is static. Cops basically keep track of the color for the last year, the current year and the next year and instantly pull over those that don't match any of those. And front plates are required in MN.

Collector plates have the word collector across the bottom of the plate with no years. Other than I drive it every day my 90 could run collector plates.
Click to expand...

Front plates are required in Missouri too. I just choose not to run one.

Edit: btw, local police here now automatically scan for expired plates electronically. Apparently, they can just drive down the road and the computer will beep at them when it finds an expired plate.
 
Kurt

From what I understand they are directly connected to the mainframe.

Up here they can scan up to 7000 plates per shift and pull registration, wants and warrants and insurance.

They sit in Tim Horton's (our main coffee retailer) early in the morning and check the cars going thru.

Being in one of the last Red Neck strongholds theirs a fairly large group driving without licences and insurance.:eek:

Paul
 
I actually have one of the original SCCOA license plate frames and it's held up pretty good over the years. I'd be down for another one in either powder coat or Black anodize. BTW no front license plates in Michigan.:cool::cool:
 
Kurt K said:
Front plates are required in Missouri too. I just choose not to run one.

Edit: btw, local police here now automatically scan for expired plates electronically. Apparently, they can just drive down the road and the computer will beep at them when it finds an expired plate.
Click to expand...

They do it different than looking at stickers. They read the license plate (numbers are reflective and the use IR Lasers like at the grocery store but more power) then lookup in their database the registration info and then check for any flagged tickets, and then will tag if registration expired. Unfortunately they do cache a bunch of data, and it isn't unheard of for those systems to incorrectly flag a vehicle for things that it shouldn't be flagged for anymore. But back to the license plate frames.

For those that can use them, they sure are better than the ones the auto dealers throw on.
 
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