Self test running, but Check Engine Light NO flashing at all - bulb OK

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Peterdroy66

Registered User
I have run Self test by grounding the STI line near the under hood test connector 100's of times over the years.
Currently on my 92' I can hear the things happening when I ground STI and turn ignition on (fan runs few seconds, clicks etc) but there is ZERO activity from the check engine light on the dash.
The bulb has been tested good.
( I suppose it is supposed to illuminate when you turn key on, but don't start? bulb test? - it does not)
Have looked inside the EEC with no bad capacitors or anything like that.

I am chasing some ignition problems - HARD starting - at least having CE light I might get better clues as to what is not working properly.

Had ignition failure few weeks ago, installed a new Ford DIS, ran perfectly - including tach working. Tach dropped out a few days later, with NO adverse impact on running. through all of this , no operating Check engine light.....

is anyone familiar with using the DCL+/DCL - wires which are available on this 92?
 
Pin 17 of the EEC connector is the Check Eng. light, and self test output. With the key on, grounding either one, should turn on the light. You can run the KOEO test, like in the diagram with a meter, of test light, If there is no flashing, you're EEC computer might be bad. The DCL+/- are for serial data. Need a real OBD 1, or NGS scanner to read. Not sure if that's available in 92.
 

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I've never used this jumper method, just a OBD 1 reader. I guess it proves the EEC is somewhat alive at least, as it sounds like its able to establish communication if its initiating the self test sequence. (fan running & some click's)
 
This morning I removed my Moates Quarter Horse and installed a J3 adapter with my program on it - no improvement, Self Test still not flashing dash light.
I have all of the symptoms of NO camshaft signal sensor, I am going to have to 'see' the cam sensor output with a scope.
I am wondering - without Cam Sensor signal, this likely stops the IDM (tach signal) we'll see.
 
2 months ago you posted you were having similar issue's-(no tach & stumbling) & you thought you found the issue. You found a tap into the 12V IGN. supply at coil to run a I/C fan was shorting to the I/C tube & killing the IGN. Possibly this short damaged more components(EEC) then you realized? This could explain your issues now & why there are more-no CEL
 
Yes, I consider that possible, however following that with a replaced DIS - it ran perfectly - was lengthening my test drives as proper running persisted, then things turned south into the difficult starting.
I agree that the grounding wire (which was the hot wire going to the condenser on the coil) may have damaged the DIS, that's why I felt it was resolved.... Problems don't USUALLY occur twos, so I am keeping that in mind.
Brought computer in to see what I can see with Binary editor, but I would really love to see PIP and SPOUT and IDM/tach signal coming out of DIS.
Working towards this, difficult with 10 mins here, 20mins there kind of focus....
P
 
Primarly problem solved - ME - error simple as that....
My Cam sensor connector no longer has a latch.
Putting it into place is kind of difficult to tell if it is really seated.
Today I had the harness out to go over it carefully looking for intermittent wires.
I noticed in the car when connected, I could see the brown silicone seal sticking out, but it seemed seated.
In hand on the bench I took my old sensor and tested the fit - seated - NO brown seal was showing hmmmm
Basically turns out, I had TWO brown seals in there and where as it worked for a few days of test driving, it worked its way out/off - tach dropped out, then a few days later the hard starting.
Today - properly assembled and seated - proper start, tach is operating all good.
- don't overlook the simple things!
If I had a latch on the cam sensor connector it would have been much more obvious that it was barely seated...................
 
Easy mistake to make for sure. Our shop came close to ruining a ISX Cummins (15 Litre-912 c.i.) a few years ago with something similar. When they removed oil filter, the seal stayed stuck on the filter header & the tech spun new on without noticing. When he started up there must have been a good enough seal that it built oil pressure, he backed it out & parked it, when he got out he saw the oil trail & large puddle in the shop. When he checked oil level it was 20 litres (5 gallon's) low of a 38 litre (10 gallon) capacity.
 
Peterdroy66 said:
Primarly problem solved - ME - error simple as that....
My Cam sensor connector no longer has a latch.
Putting it into place is kind of difficult to tell if it is really seated.
Today I had the harness out to go over it carefully looking for intermittent wires.
I noticed in the car when connected, I could see the brown silicone seal sticking out, but it seemed seated.
In hand on the bench I took my old sensor and tested the fit - seated - NO brown seal was showing hmmmm
Basically turns out, I had TWO brown seals in there and where as it worked for a few days of test driving, it worked its way out/off - tach dropped out, then a few days later the hard starting.
Today - properly assembled and seated - proper start, tach is operating all good.
- don't overlook the simple things!
If I had a latch on the cam sensor connector it would have been much more obvious that it was barely seated...................
Click to expand...

Suggest adding a couple zip ties to hold the connector in seated position.
 
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