Spark Plug Wires Recommendations?


Registered User
I have a nasty misfire in Cylinder 6. Plug was swapped, coil pack was swapped, and I have spare spark plug wires I ordered off of Rock Auto that say they were for an 89 SC, but the lengths are all wrong and the ohms were way off. Not buying these a second time.

The plug itself is gapped and gets nice and wet with fuel when running, so it's either the plug isn't getting spark or the injector is just dumping fuel. I'd like to start with what I can reach, being the wire. They're the factory harnesses so I hope it's just them dying. I don't own a tester, so that's on my to-buy list while I'm in town getting oil and a filter for mom's flatbed truck. Farm life.

I want to avoid shooting myself a second time, and the forum posts I could find were from the mid 2000s mentioning defunct brands or performance plugs that run up to $120. Where can I get myself some reliable factory performance wires? Wh


SCCoA Member
These seem to more accurately fit the application. At Rockauto, click the part number for application. Standard products are ok.
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS 6664 Standard® Premium
I use a HEI tester, for a quick way to check for spark output. Ohms vary a lot, so I am mainly looking for a really high resistance, or an open. 6K-20K is normal.

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SCCoA Member
I have the Taylor wires, and they have been great. I think they are probably close to 10 years old now, and still just as soft and pliable as when new.

David Neibert

SCCoA Admin
That's a very tidy engine David! Is that the 10.90 motor?
Yes this is mostly the same combo, and it makes about the same power as when it ran 10.91
It had a smaller MP FMIC vs current full width FMIC and radiator, bigger headers and exhaust, high stall non locking AOD vs 4r70w with locking converter and no AC last time I raced it. Here is how it looked then vs now.2.3 Whipple 051120.jpgSC engine bay Jan 2022 A.JPEG
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Registered User
Final update on this: Got a spark tester from NAPA. Wire 6 is still kicking bright as the sun. Pulled the plug and it's soaked again. Seems that injector 6 is the culprit and is stuck open.

Here I go tearing it apart again! :D

Thank you all for the recommendations. This will come in handy when I do get to replacing these at some point.


SCCoA Member
Get a NOID tester and make sure the computer is not hanging the injector b4 u tear it apart.
I've had 2 '90's era 5.0 computers fail and leave voltage on the injector, causing it to stay open, nothing wrong with injector. I believe this is due to capacitor failures in the ecm, and may even b pretty easy to repair if someone is good/practiced at board level component R&R...