STUTTER IN THREE DIFFERENT SITUATIONS

M

mastercief

Registered User
OK so i have a 1991 ford thunderbird super coupe and i have a intermittent stutter that randomly shows up if im driving and let off accelerator it will jolt forward and sounds like something under car is moving
if i turn on ac sometimes when im accelerating my car will have a constant stutter but it goes away when i turn ac off
and the last one just started recently if im braking sometime my car will stutter
the ac and brake stutter feel the exact same its not coming from the brake and in all three situations the tachometer will keep dropping and coming back up
to specify when any of these stutters happen it sounds like my transmission is sliding back and coming forward
(probably not what happening but that's what it feel and sounds like in the car)
its not the maf or the cam sensor i replaced those and the ac problem only started after i replaced alternator
 
i forgot to mention but some times when its acting up the car will start idling really high but if i turn it off and on again this goes away
 
Something between the cam sensor and the ignition model (actual name slipsy mind at the moment, but it's mounted at the top of the ac compressor with all the wires) isn't working dropping tach is usually a sign of it not getting readings from the cam sensor which I belive also controls ign advance and retard for timing. Check the harness very good clean connections double triple check the cam sensor and it's timing.
 
35th said:
Something between the cam sensor and the ignition model (actual name slipsy mind at the moment, but it's mounted at the top of the ac compressor with all the wires) isn't working dropping tach is usually a sign of it not getting readings from the cam sensor which I belive also controls ign advance and retard for timing. Check the harness very good clean connections double triple check the cam sensor and it's timing.
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Ok ill check again Tuesday and say if that fixed it I will say it started acting up a lot more when it the temp in my state went up
 
mastercief said:
i have been trying but the light has only been coming on when i work and im doing 6 days a week right now i just dont really have much time
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The code(s) will be stored in memory even if the light is not on at the time, so can be read anytime. If you are not familiar with EEC IV & OBD 1 systems, find a shop that is.
 
35th said:
dropping tach is usually a sign of it not getting readings from the cam sensor which I believe also controls ign advance and retard for timing.
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The cam sensor output signal is referred to "CID", for cylinder identification. Its purpose is to start the sequence, for the crank sensor, (PIP output), to fire the coils in order of paired cylinders. Also, used for the order that the injectors turn on. The "tach signal" comes from the DIS module, as a IDM signal, that is also used by the EEC module for diagnostics. IDM mirrors PIP. Code 18 sets for IDM faults, code 14 for PIP,(crank sensor) faults, and code 19 for CID, cam sensor faults.
 
SC-AL said:
The cam sensor output signal is referred to "CID", for cylinder identification. Its purpose is to start the sequence, for the crank sensor, (PIP output), to fire the coils in order of paired cylinders. Also, used for the order that the injectors turn on. The "tach signal" comes from the DIS module, as a IDM signal, that is also used by the EEC module for diagnostics. IDM mirrors PIP. Code 18 sets for IDM faults, code 14 for PIP,(crank sensor) faults, and code 19 for CID, cam sensor faults.
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116
10
121
122
211
121
122
211
These are the codes I got
I got a PIP code and throttle position sensor
 
I forgot that 1991 was the start of three digit codes. I would carefully inspect the engine harness. You first need to use a dvom meter, to check your sensor, signal return, and tps output voltages. Really look at that Crank/Cam sensor harness. Clear codes, and re-check, after a drive. Might need a crank sensor, but check your balancer, and bolt. I like to use my Oscilloscope, for these type of diagnosis.
 
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