Did you test your coil hot or cold? Any visible cracks/damage?
If the store has one, maybe they'll let you check it to compare.
I'm putting new stuff on now any It may have been the sc belt this one came off soo easy and the new one was not the same to say the least
New cam sensor, gapped plugs, new belt, new coil, new plug wires
Still the same hard to start when it does it chugs for second the levels out I also cleaned the maf this morning. After starting today I can hear the rpm lower when I unplug iac, when I unplugged the MAF there are no changes in the way it runs still idles and then bogs when in boost still haven't gotten around to fuel and filter trying to run this tank low then do a fill up b4 the filter. Could it be maf
99% of the time bucking is caused by ignition problems which are usually plugs or wires. Sounds to me like you have a bad plug wire which is not uncommon.
David
What else should I do I see several members said dis. I even talked to a local guy who had a couple sc coupes and said he would say dis. Local auto zone said they'll test it. Has new coil, new Motorcraft oem plugs gapped 52, new cam sensor, cleaned maf, when maf un plugged no change in the way it runs can I use the electonic portion from a na 3.8 cougar around the same year. I have new fuel filter just haven't installed it. Little hard to start but runs great other than bucking and loss of power when revving into boost. I noticed if I floor it at idle in park it'll accept boost until about 2500-3000rpm then falls on its face almost like locks up u can here it shutter and rattle the let out its smooth as every other car I own
Little hard to start but runs great other than bucking and loss of power when revving into boost.
DIS/Coil see:
http://mnharms.com/tutorials/disnostart/
...and for an overview:
http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html
IAC:
FORD IDLE AIR BYPASS
Ford doesn't use idle air bypass to regulate idle speed on its older throttle body (CFI) applications, but uses a solenoid or vacuum diaphragm instead to open the throttle linkage. Idle air bypass is used only on multipoint injection applications. On older pre-OBD II cars, codes 12, 13, 16, 17 & 19 all indicate idle speed is out of spec (too high or too low). Codes 47 and 48 indicate a fuel mixture problem which could be caused by an air leak. On OBD II vehicles (1996 & newer), codes P505 to P509 indicate a fault with the idle speed control system.
The diagnostic procedure when any of these codes are found is to turn the engine off, unplug the ISC bypass air solenoid connector, then restart the engine to see if the idle rpm drops (it should if the ISC solenoid is working). No change would indicate a problem in the motor or wiring.
The ISC solenoid can be checked by measuring its resistance. With the positive lead of a digital volt/ohm meter on the VPWR pin and the negative lead on the ISC pin, measure the resistance of the solenoid. On many applications, the spec calls for 7.0 to 13.0 ohms. If it is out of specs, the ISC solenoid is bad. Also check for shorts between both ISC solenoid terminals and the case.
If the ISC checks out okay, check for battery voltage between the ISC connector terminals while the key is on. Voltage should also vary when the engine is running. No voltage indicates a wiring or computer problem.
Suggest you pick up an EVTM off eBay if you like checking wiring, etc.
This morning started hard about the 3rd try.
What are the readings on multimeter. Do know where I can get a pic diagram of the plug to properly test it.this sounds like a crank sensor problem. have you checked that and your harmonic balancer?
What are the readings on multimeter. Do know where I can get a pic diagram of the plug to properly test it.
Hard to start is usually cam sensor...or also crank sender, DIS and harness/grounds, EEC.
One way to check if it's tied strictly to boost is to remove the supercharger belt and go for a test drive. It should run ok, but accelerate like a 4,000 lb. Pinto with the e-brake on.
I'm still expecting it to be a plug wire issue, tho