Supercoupe Performance Rear Anti-Sway Bar

Rick_Leuce

Registered User
Hey,
I recently purchased an improved rear anti sway bar from Supercoupe Performance and was wondering if anyone else had difficulty installing the end-links that come with the kit. The instructions say I am supposed to tighten the nut until the spacer can barely be turned by finger, but I’ve tightened the nut as much as possible but the spacer is still very easy to spin. I even took it apart and added 2 more washers but it’s still not snug.

Is there something else I should try?
 

Rick_Leuce

Registered User
I’m using something that looks exactly like your Autozone part. The sway bar is held in by the frame brackets right now (near the fuel tank) but I don’t think I can tighten the nut on my end links enough to make the bushings and spacers feel snug; I can still wiggle them up and down a little.

The car is on its own weight. The instructions told me to put the car on ramps because removing the sway bar could be difficult to remove/reinstall using a pneumatic jack to lift up the rear of the car.

Also, is there a way I can delete photos I used in previous posts? I’ve maxed out my 50 mb and can’t upload more pictures to the forums.
 
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Rick_Leuce

Registered User
I just watched a youtube video of someone installing their end links. I was nervous I was doing something wrong, but I figure that my spacer is probably almost 1/8 inch too short (or I ran out of thread to tighten the nut down) so I cant totally snug my bushings properly. I’ll go ahead and remove my sway-bar so I can add silicone to lubricate my new bushing in the U-shaped bracket (something I forgot to do) and will probably just add a couple washers so I can snug my end links down (maybe Ill put the washers between the nut and lower control arm so I don’t affect the distance between my sway bar and lower control arm.

My car had the factory end links (which is not just a straight bolt) so they didn’t have a hollow pipe for a spacer.
 

AdamG

SCCoA Member
You're better off taking one of those bolts to your local tractor supply/rural king ect and get slightly shorter grade 8 bolts and nuts. Most of those kits have grade 5 hardware or worse and bend the first time you lift the wheels in the air. The bolts are usually only a couple bucks at stores like that.
 

KMT

Registered User
I figure that my spacer is probably almost 1/8 inch too short (or I ran out of thread to tighten the nut down) so I cant totally snug my bushings properly.

As I recall, the bolts in the kit I used had plenty of thread. I just made sure that when it was together, the bar was level w/the ground and the bushings were loaded.

Stack goes like this: One flat washer on each side of each bushing top/bottom same size as the bushings, tube in the middle. The tube won't spin, and it's not crushed. I put the threaded end up, and shimmed w/one smaller flat washer (1/16" thick?) under the locknut to snug it all up when tightened.

And yes, small dia. bolts risk bending...the ones that were on the car when I got were both bowed. The ones w/the kit solved that issue.
 

XR7 Dave

Registered User
If you have the ability, another solution that eliminates the binding is to use a stock style end link such as you can find on Rock Auto or anywhere else for cheap. If your car is lowered it's pretty easy to shorten the links and still maintain the stock geometry and not bind.
 

Rick_Leuce

Registered User
I figured out what I was doing wrong. After torquing the lock nuts until they needed to be replaced (and buying better ones) I realized that spraying silicone in my bushings/bracket made it easier for the sway bar to swivel, so it’s now nice and snug.
 
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