First off, Flip, I have to apologize for my mistake. My Crown Vic master cylinder does actually only have 2 lines coming from it,(after reading your post, I went out, flipped the hood, and saw my mistake), but the front brake line goes to the "block" from the Crown Vic. Make sure you take that from a donor car, or buy a new one. Its got 1 line going in, from the master cylinder, then 2 separate lines going out from the block to the front brakes. There's also a plug on this block, that I did not use. I assume it was for the brake lights. The other line from the master cylinder goes directly to the rear brakes. I could take a picture, but it won't show much, because you can barely see the booster buried in under the wiper valance, and behind the master cylinder. Look at a regular Thunderbird (NON - SC) and that's generally what you will see. The brake booster from the regular T-bird will look, in its original home, exactly like it will in your SC. I highly doubt that Ford changed the firewall and inner wheelwell sheetmetal just to make a Super Coupe. (I could be wrong, but its never happened before.) Just kidding. I think this "block" from the Crown Vic is nothing more than a junction block. Anyway, to think of this in simpler terms, when you had your ABS system out of the car, all you should have seen was 3 brake lines protruding from below. Those are the ones you need. Ignore the electronic plugs, I just zip-tied them back out of the way. To install the booster, you may want to remove the driver's seat, (I did not, but it may have been easier to gain access to the booster from the inside of the car), from there it is just plain a miserable job, but it very obviously can be done, in the event the booster ever fails. If I were going to do this again, I would probably remove the motor hood also, for easier access. I did this job totally by myself, but it may be easier if you had someone else help hold lines and wires out of the way, as the booster just barely fits in there. Make sure you don't kink any brake lines, as I didn't have to cut any of them to shorten or lengthen them. I merely bent mine slightly to make them shorter. I can't remember exactly how my brake light wiring worked, but I am pretty sure I never cut any wires, either. When I peeked under the hood a few minutes ago, I could see the plug from the original wiring plugged into the side of the Crown Vic master cylinder. I live 30 miles from work, if I remember to bring my camera tomorrow, I will take a picture of what you can see, anyway. I hope this site is easy to post pics on, as I am not really very good at computer stuff. One more thing I forgot to mention that is VERY important, is to check your pushrod length between the booster and master cylinder. That should go without saying, and if you don't know much about brakes, you probably need someone to help you that does know. I "think" my pushrod length was the same, but can't say for sure, as I have been adapting booster and master cylinder on my Model A Ford pickup as well, and can't remember which one I did some work on. Some of these pushrods have adjustments available to them. Measure how far the pushrod protrudes out of the booster on a Crown Vic, and measure the same on the T-bird donor booster, and make it the same. This is pretty important stuff, and like I said, if you don't know that, you shouldn't be doing this swap alone. Its important, not difficult. Every hot rodder that's ever upgraded his rod has done it all. What I actually did was go to the local wrecker, get a booster and master cylinder, and 4-way block from the Crown Vic, then went and purchased a NEW master cylinder, 'cause its only about 65 bucks, cheap insurance. If you did this swap with the engine out of the car, you could climb right in there, and I "think" it would be far less work. Also, you could bend the lines and tuck them away a little nicer than I was able to. Regardless, I will try to post a pic tomorrow. To respond to Fturner, Dave has summed it up pretty well. I don't think I can add much to his comments, except that your turn is coming sometime in the future when you can decide if you want to spend a couple thousand bucks to rebuild your system. I, also, went through the process of installing a new accumulator and trying to find someone to troubleshoot this system, short of going to the Ford dealer and paying them $80.00 and hour for a 2nd year apprentice, (that I don't think knew as much as I knew about it) to teach himself at my expense. After a lot of frustration, I decided to replace it. John V.O.