Switching ABS to Conventional.

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SCarSC

Registered User
I'm bumping this because it should be a sticky at this point, or at least in the how to section. Talked to Ralphp and decided to do thunderbird master cylinder. Worked great, brake s work much better now. Paul(masssc) and a neighbor helped with the install, took about 4 hours total.
 
H

Hal O'Peridol

Registered User
Having gone through this thread a few times, I know my ABS system has to go.

Going with a 1991 Cougar master cylinder and a regular power booster. Ordered both from Rock Auto, lucky because the booster was on clearance.

We will see how the swap goes, expect pictures in a couple weeks.
 
SuperCoupeDave

SuperCoupeDave

Registered User
Hal O'Peridol said:
Having gone through this thread a few times, I know my ABS system has to go.

Going with a 1991 Cougar master cylinder and a regular power booster. Ordered both from Rock Auto, lucky because the booster was on clearance.

We will see how the swap goes, expect pictures in a couple weeks.
Click to expand...
I did the swap on my last 89 8 or 9 years ago. Its not fun. I broke 3 boosters trying to get it in. Finally got it done. Just try and be patient.
 
K

kaiser

Registered User
Should I remove the ABS and brakes electrical harness

Hello everybody, I was reading all the post to perform the abs swap for conventional, I really confident about doing it well.

But I want to know if you recommend to remove all the ABS electrical harness, I read that the fog lights are included in the abs harness and I only have to separate them. For now I removed everything as you recommend (original teves ii, wiper motor, etc.) to made easy to fit the new booster next sunday.

please let me know if I should remove the harness, and any other recommendation.

PS, I’m from Mexico so don’t blame for my grammar mistakes lol xD
 
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S

SCarSC

Registered User
I left all the wiring there...didn't feel like screwing something up because I had to have the car going the next day.
 
K

kaiser

Registered User
swap completed but..

hello everyone,

I think I have some bad luck :( I replaced and finished the swap some days ago, and my Brake booster it's bad, when I apply some press on the pedal I got a hissing noise around the pedal, sadly the booster was brand new but I got and imported them from ebay, so I can't return it. The pedal goes soft with the engine running, but the hissing its a signal of a vacuum leak right?

Well, I'll buy one more from the local autozone and change it again, a tedious work to remove almost everything to change it. Can I blame ford a little??


Second, what are the fog lights wiring attached to the ABS harness?, I removed all the wiring from the hood until now.
 
dthompson

dthompson

Registered User
kaiser said:
hello everyone,

Second, what are the fog lights wiring attached to the ABS harness?, I removed all the wiring from the hood until now.
Click to expand...

its part of the harness that is inside the cabin. It runs from the fog light switch on the center console, under the passenger seat, under the lower door trim, to connectors by the ECU behind the kick panel.

This is covered in the following thread.... http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136547-89-ABS-Brake-Conversion-Elimination
 
K

kaiser

Registered User
dthompson said:
its part of the harness that is inside the cabin.
Click to expand...


Thank you Dthompson, I was afraid that they was a part of the harness on the engine bay because I cut it all hahahahahaha xD

Well, I searched a lot, and yes it look that the hissing sound on my pedals when pressed are because the booster its bad :'( I'll change it soon as possible.

Regards!
 
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yayo_ayala

Registered User
Proportioning valve

Hi, I took me 2 days but I have gone to this thread. Unfortunately my ABS broke last week and I am not sure if I should sent it to supercoupe for remanufacture or replace it.

In terms of the MC I am choosing the Crown Vic,but the Proportioning valve is not for sale (I already read the option of using a Tbird MC with four ports, but I discarded because it has a smaller cylinder) . I wondering if someone has found a replacement part from Wilwood or using a Proportioning valve from other cars, etc. I want to avoid going to a junk yard


I have seen Proportioning valves from Ford F150, but no idea if it will work.
Ford F8UZ-2C161-AA - VALVE ASY - CONTROL
 
R

rbrown

Registered User
yayo_ayala said:
Hi, I took me 2 days but I have gone to this thread. Unfortunately my ABS broke last week and I am not sure if I should sent it to supercoupe for remanufacture or replace it.

In terms of the MC I am choosing the Crown Vic,but the Proportioning valve is not for sale (I already read the option of using a Tbird MC with four ports, but I discarded because it has a smaller cylinder) . I wondering if someone has found a replacement part from Wilwood or using a Proportioning valve from other cars, etc. I want to avoid going to a junk yard


I have seen Proportioning valves from Ford F150, but no idea if it will work.
Ford F8UZ-2C161-AA - VALVE ASY - CONTROL
Click to expand...


Back when I did this 100 years ago, ;) I used the MC for 1988 Thunderbird 5.0 and used the Proportioning valve already on the car. But added an adjustable inline going to the back brakes.
 
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yayo_ayala

Registered User
Thanks rbrown, I will the review the 88 MC. The following thread describes the cubic inches of fluid for 1 inch of brake pedal travel.


On a 1989-1992 SC, to move .7cubic inches of brake fluid, you have to move the master cylinder 1 inch. If you replace the master cylinder with one with a 1" bore (like some Crown vic units) you now only need to move .94", about 14% less distance.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?59901-Switching-ABS-to-Conventional/page32

Thanks!
 
K

KMT

Registered User
c101guy said:
I am a member of SCCOA
Click to expand...

From here, what I see is the forum says you are simply a 'Registered User' vs. a member - do you pay the annual member fee?

If so, you may want to reach out for support via forum management. If not, you may want to consider signing up as a paid member.

Good luck.

Ken
 
C

c101guy

Registered User
KMT said:
From here, what I see is the forum says you are simply a 'Registered User' vs. a member - do you pay the annual member fee?

If so, you may want to reach out for support via forum management. If not, you may want to consider signing up as a paid member.

Good luck.

Ken
Click to expand...

Thanks Ken,

In the absence of a paypal account, how / where do I pay my dues?

Is this still the correct email for information: scguys@sccoa.com ?

Thanks again,

Bob
 
G

gbabione

Registered User
My ABS pump motor is tied up. I'm trying to take it apart to clean it up to see if it'll run. If not, I'm going this route.
I have read this whole article as well as others I have found. Other than bore size, is there another reason to use the cv mc? Does that difference in the amount of pedal travel matter? The 2 people who used base tbird mc didn't seem to mind. The hints on making it easier to get the booster in should be helpful. Using a 90-92 base booster and mc with 4 ports seems to be the best way to go. Don't need to find a proportioning valve or modify the bolt on the booster.
 
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Scott Long

SCCoA Member
I used a base model thunderbird booster and master. I've bled the hell out of it but my pedal goes down almost to the floor before the brakes grab. Not sure if I need a spacer or something? Or maybe I need to take the master back off and bench bleed it and start all over again. I had to change one fitting and re-flare the line to fit the base master.

Maybe I should have used the crown vic master? or maybe I did and I'm confused? It was 2017 when I swapped mine and the car just sits in the garage.
 
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gbabione

Registered User
Is there a part number for the power booster gasket? I didn't get one with the booster I ordered and I can't find a number anywhere.
 
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