Switching ABS to Conventional.
- Thread starter mr.x
- Start date
TbirdSCFan
Registered User
Pull your ABS computer relay out or find the related fuse and pull it. Here's why... in a panic stop, with even a weak accumulator you have plenty of reserve for normal braking; however, once the ABS tries to kick in, it will use up valuble reserve pressure in a snap w/o enough to cause the ABS to do anything..Scott Long said:
You'd rather the brakes lock up and have them stay that way. ABS Swap
I would like to take this opportunity to thank all of you on this thread ( especially you John < jvo >) for the wealth of information on this subject, it's great to actually read about this project , I was seriously getting ready to undertake this swap and here is all the info I needed in one package.
John you were correct when you said it is an awful job, but it can be done,
I went to the wrecking yard and picked up all the parts needed, I was even lucky enough to find a Vicky with a brand new (almost) MC and booster, you couldn't even see any dust, grease or dirt on the booster and the fluid reservoir was brand new.
I picked up the small splitting block from the Vicky, however when I went to install it on the bird, I noticed that my bird has one similar down there attached to the frame, there are three break lines leading from the MC, 2 go down toward this block and the third goes back toward the firewall, and then I lost it.
Could you be a bit more specific as to what and how you did your lines please?
What is the difference between a low line and a high line bird?
Thanks:
Dslsmoke.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank all of you on this thread ( especially you John < jvo >)
for the wealth of information on this subject, it's great to actually read about this project , I was seriously getting ready to undertake this swap and here is all the info I needed in one package. John you were correct when you said it is an awful job, but it can be done,
I went to the wrecking yard and picked up all the parts needed, I was even lucky enough to find a Vicky with a brand new (almost) MC and booster, you couldn't even see any dust, grease or dirt on the booster and the fluid reservoir was brand new.
I picked up the small splitting block from the Vicky, however when I went to install it on the bird, I noticed that my bird has one similar down there attached to the frame, there are three break lines leading from the MC, 2 go down toward this block and the third goes back toward the firewall, and then I lost it.
Could you be a bit more specific as to what and how you did your lines please?
What is the difference between a low line and a high line bird?
Thanks:
Dslsmoke.
switching to conventional brakes
The "low line" description was someone else's in one of the above posts, that I took to mean a non supercharged, regular T-bird, which has a regular brake booster, and diagonal braking system.
The block you refer to low down on the frame, is for the rear brakes. If you trace the 1 line from the back of your car,(I assume you have a Super Coupe you are doing this one, with 1 brake line tothe rear of the car, instead of the "low line" car with 2 brake lines to the rear. Anyway, trace the 1 brake line forward, and you will fine it goes to this block. Plumb the rear-most line (the line on the Crown Vic master cylinder) that is the closest to the firewall into this block. The line on the front of the Crown Vic master cylinder goes to the splitting block from the Crown Vic. If you look at my photos closely, hopefully you can see that I did NOT use the wiring from the Crown Vic block. The plug is still on there, but the wires are sticking out about 3 inches, and go nowhere. I just haven't bothered to take it off. The 2 lines from the Crown Vic splitting block go to the 2 separate front wheels. One line goes behind the booster, and across the firewall to the right front wheel, the other one straight down past the "other" block to the left front wheel. I'll check in again periodically if you have any questions. Good luck, remember, don't let your kids or wife, or your pastor in your garage when you start working on it.
John V.O.
The "low line" description was someone else's in one of the above posts, that I took to mean a non supercharged, regular T-bird, which has a regular brake booster, and diagonal braking system.
The block you refer to low down on the frame, is for the rear brakes. If you trace the 1 line from the back of your car,(I assume you have a Super Coupe you are doing this one, with 1 brake line tothe rear of the car, instead of the "low line" car with 2 brake lines to the rear. Anyway, trace the 1 brake line forward, and you will fine it goes to this block. Plumb the rear-most line (the line on the Crown Vic master cylinder) that is the closest to the firewall into this block. The line on the front of the Crown Vic master cylinder goes to the splitting block from the Crown Vic. If you look at my photos closely, hopefully you can see that I did NOT use the wiring from the Crown Vic block. The plug is still on there, but the wires are sticking out about 3 inches, and go nowhere. I just haven't bothered to take it off. The 2 lines from the Crown Vic splitting block go to the 2 separate front wheels. One line goes behind the booster, and across the firewall to the right front wheel, the other one straight down past the "other" block to the left front wheel. I'll check in again periodically if you have any questions. Good luck, remember, don't let your kids or wife, or your pastor in your garage when you start working on it.
John V.O.
Randy N Connie
Registered User
I am going to see if I can buy a new 93 Crown Vic master cylinder and booster NEW today.
Any one know the cost for new parts? Master cylinder and booster?
And Is there a better year to use than the 93 Crown Vic parts?
I have swap my 90 SC spindles for 93 Mach VIII spindles.The brake
sensor wires on the 93 Mach VIII are to short to plug into my 90 SC.
And the plung-in is different.And I was unable to remove the 90 SC ABS sensors,
to install in the 93 Mach VIII spindles.
I thought about splicing the wires.But the 90 SC has coaxle wire.
And the Mach VIII sensor has two wires.So I don't think this would
make a nice clean splice.
New Abs sensors cost $65.00 each,I need two.So I think in the long run.
It would be best to ditch the complete ABS system.And it works perfect.
For something cheaper.
Do you need to get under the dash for this swap?If so,I may not be able to do the job.
Do you have to work inside under the dash?
THANKS RANDY
Any one know the cost for new parts? Master cylinder and booster?
And Is there a better year to use than the 93 Crown Vic parts?
I have swap my 90 SC spindles for 93 Mach VIII spindles.The brake
sensor wires on the 93 Mach VIII are to short to plug into my 90 SC.
And the plung-in is different.And I was unable to remove the 90 SC ABS sensors,
to install in the 93 Mach VIII spindles.
I thought about splicing the wires.But the 90 SC has coaxle wire.
And the Mach VIII sensor has two wires.So I don't think this would
make a nice clean splice.
New Abs sensors cost $65.00 each,I need two.So I think in the long run.
It would be best to ditch the complete ABS system.And it works perfect.
For something cheaper.
Do you need to get under the dash for this swap?If so,I may not be able to do the job.
Do you have to work inside under the dash?
THANKS RANDY
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ABS swap
Randy, in your last post, you stated you were going to buy a new booster and master cylinder. It was unclear to me, make sure you get the skinny booster. You will be real sad, if you spend several hours bolting in the thick booster from the Crown Vic, only to find there isn't enough room between the front of the booster, and the inner fender panel. That's why you need the skinny booster from the regular T-bird. I just want to make sure you know that.
Yes, you have to work under the dash to take the bolts out for the booster. They bolt on through the firewall.
I may contact you to come have a look. I will be in Oblong Illinois the third week in October for the next metalmeet. www.metalmeet.com I see where you live is just down the road a few miles. John V.O.
Randy, in your last post, you stated you were going to buy a new booster and master cylinder. It was unclear to me, make sure you get the skinny booster. You will be real sad, if you spend several hours bolting in the thick booster from the Crown Vic, only to find there isn't enough room between the front of the booster, and the inner fender panel. That's why you need the skinny booster from the regular T-bird. I just want to make sure you know that.
Yes, you have to work under the dash to take the bolts out for the booster. They bolt on through the firewall.
I may contact you to come have a look. I will be in Oblong Illinois the third week in October for the next metalmeet. www.metalmeet.com I see where you live is just down the road a few miles. John V.O.
Randy N Connie
Registered User
jvo I am not able to work under the dash,and other places on my SC.
So I will not be doing the non-ABS swap.
I might drive down to Oblong,il. it is a little over 70 miles from my house.
I would be interrested in going to the metal meet.
It would be cool to get together.
RANDY
So I will not be doing the non-ABS swap.
I might drive down to Oblong,il. it is a little over 70 miles from my house.
I would be interrested in going to the metal meet.
It would be cool to get together.
RANDY
Actualy Randy the only thing you need to do under the dash is disconect the pushrod from the brake pedal and the 4 nuts(I think its 4) that hold the booster to the firewall. Maybe you have a neihborhood kid that would help you out with that, its not a bad job but I can see where people with physical limitations could have a problem doing that.
The trouble of finding someone to help you with that would well be be worth the much better and cheaper to maintain brakeing system you would have.
Maybe Connie could help with this, seems I remember Connie being very successfull in helping in the past.
Just food for thought.
The trouble of finding someone to help you with that would well be be worth the much better and cheaper to maintain brakeing system you would have.
Maybe Connie could help with this, seems I remember Connie being very successfull in helping in the past.
Just food for thought.
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XxSlowpokexX
Registered User
Or you can take the fuse out..............
Randy N Connie
Registered User
MIKE 38sc said:Actualy Randy the only thing you need to do under the dash is disconect the pushrod from the brake pedal and the 4 nuts(I think its 4) that hold the booster to the firewall. Maybe you have a neihborhood kid that would help you out with that, its not a bad job but I can see where people with physical limitations could have a problem doing that.
The trouble of finding someone to help you with that would well be be worth the much better and cheaper to maintain brakeing system you would have.
Maybe Connie could help with this, seems I remember Connie being very successfull in helping in the past.
Just food for thought.
All my neihborhood kids are crank heads.They would be tring to snort
up the brake fluild.
.I soldered the 90 SC coaxle ABS sensor wire to the
two wire Mach VIII ABS sensor wire.Turned the key on
,no smoke.So I hope I got the right wire connected
to the right wire.
I am bleeding the brakes now.The job is not turning out well.
I am using a 2x4 to hold the brake peddle down,then run
around and bleed the brakes.Have a hose on bleeder with
end stuck in brake fluild.
lowflying90
Registered User
ScrapSC
Registered User
Finished mine up
Just finished my conversion up. Did this while the engine was out.. Cost me about 75 bucks for all new stuff. While in there I went ahead and installed a line lock.... I can see where it would be a pain in the a$$ if the engine was in and you where doing it alone. But with the engine out and 2 of us working on it, it wasn't that bad a job...
Just finished my conversion up. Did this while the engine was out.. Cost me about 75 bucks for all new stuff. While in there I went ahead and installed a line lock.... I can see where it would be a pain in the a$$ if the engine was in and you where doing it alone. But with the engine out and 2 of us working on it, it wasn't that bad a job...
Ok.
So 4 Bolts And The Push Rod Under The Dash. Remove Abs/mster Abortion. I Think I'll Run New Lines To Each Wheel, And Get An Aftermarket Junction Block To Clean Up The Install A Little. Or Does Any Line Lock Come W/ A One In/ 2 Out Setup? Connect Rear Brake Line To Rear Hole In Master, Front To Front. Plug In Side Of Master, Reconnect Pushrod To Pedal, And Done? Gee, About An Hour Job, Eh? Lol. But Worth It In The End.
W/ All This Out, Is The Clutch Pedal Easier Accessible? My Assembly That Bolts To The Firewall Is Bent, And The Clutch Often Does Not Get A Full Depression. I Hope Ies Easier Then Than It Is Now.
SOMEONE SHOULD DO A EXACT HOW TO WRITE UP W/ PICS ALONG THE WAY FOR THOSE OF US WHO ARENT QUITE AS MECHANICALLY INCLINED AS THE REST. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP AND RESEARCH, EVERYONE.
So 4 Bolts And The Push Rod Under The Dash. Remove Abs/mster Abortion. I Think I'll Run New Lines To Each Wheel, And Get An Aftermarket Junction Block To Clean Up The Install A Little. Or Does Any Line Lock Come W/ A One In/ 2 Out Setup? Connect Rear Brake Line To Rear Hole In Master, Front To Front. Plug In Side Of Master, Reconnect Pushrod To Pedal, And Done? Gee, About An Hour Job, Eh? Lol. But Worth It In The End.
W/ All This Out, Is The Clutch Pedal Easier Accessible? My Assembly That Bolts To The Firewall Is Bent, And The Clutch Often Does Not Get A Full Depression. I Hope Ies Easier Then Than It Is Now.
SOMEONE SHOULD DO A EXACT HOW TO WRITE UP W/ PICS ALONG THE WAY FOR THOSE OF US WHO ARENT QUITE AS MECHANICALLY INCLINED AS THE REST. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP AND RESEARCH, EVERYONE.
Randy N Connie
Registered User
Speed bleeders and Connie got-er-done.
Randy
Randy
