UHMW IRS Sub-Frame Mount Kits

DLF

DLF

Registered User
I've had some people ask, so I'm considering making rear sub-frame mounts.

I'd make them from black UHMW rod which, among it's other properties, resists the transmission of noise and vibration.

A full set would include 8 bushings and 4 hardcoated (to prevent corrosion) aluminum sleeves.

Pricing should be somewhere around $350-$400, but that's not firm yet. I haven't yet made a set.

Is there any interest in this?
 
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rzimmerl

rzimmerl

Registered User
I'm interested as there are no replacements for these, not sure if the stockers are still available from Ford.

New bolts are a must, I would say. Wouldn't need to be stainless though, to keep the cost down. I had one break a few years back from driving, and had to source the entire assy as it all fell out. I think I still have one new Ford bolt if you need comparison.

Are you intending to reuse the factory large lower retainer and upper cone?
 
DLF

DLF

Registered User
rzimmerl said:
I'm interested as there are no replacements for these, not sure if the stockers are still available from Ford.

New bolts are a must, I would say. Wouldn't need to be stainless though, to keep the cost down. I had one break a few years back from driving, and had to source the entire assy as it all fell out. I think I still have one new Ford bolt if you need comparison.

Are you intending to reuse the factory large lower retainer and upper cone?
Click to expand...

I was thinking stainless to resist corrosion in the future, I hate rust. But as I don't even know what size they are yet, I don't know if it's even possible to get them in A4 stainless, nor do I know if they'd be strong enough.

I won't know my intentions for sure, until I take my car apart, but reusing as much as possible will be the goal. And I'm not going to do that until at least one person commits to buying a set.

I'm looking for somebody to show some real interest and make a $200 deposit, and that person will get $100 off the final price. :D
 
XxSlowpokexX

XxSlowpokexX

Registered User
I'd be interested I just dont have the cash lying around at the moment. Once my tax check comes in Id be good to go. How difficult are these to take out? If I snap a bolt Im going to freak!

Damon
 
rzimmerl

rzimmerl

Registered User
When the bolt breaks they are a pain to drill out, I had to do this as I had one break for no reason. Most will cut access hole in the trunk to remove the Tnut and cut an access panel for the lower also if they break. The busings are not too easy to remove, or at least I think so, but if you had the whole subframe out that would be a different story. It will require the special Ford tool to remove the stockers, or I rigged up some all thread and black steel pipe (forming a U shape with a hole in the center for the all thread) to remove mine and install the new stock replacement. The bushing fits in a tapered opening, and there is a mushroom shaped part that pops up thru the frame.
 
XR7 Dave

XR7 Dave

Registered User
I'll send you a deposit on a set. I do not want stainless bolts though. They need to be 10.9 grade steel. They won't rust if they are put in with proper lubrication on the shanks and locktite on the threads.

It is very common for the bolts to break on removal. We'll need to make sure that we can find the proper replacement bolts before going too deep into this one.
 
DLF

DLF

Registered User
I've got the Ford special tool to remove these.

Been doing some more research, and as far as I can tell, the three part numbers for the stock bushings are all obsolete and unavailable.

E9SZ-5D006-A (front-2 required)
E9SZ-5D006-B (rear-2 required)
E9SZ-5D001-A (retainer-4 required)

I'm somewhat concerned about removing my stock bushings, which cannot be replaced, to start development. :eek:

I agree with Dave, at least 10.9 bolts are needed.
 
rzimmerl

rzimmerl

Registered User
The stock bolt is M12x1.75 and 125mm from the head flange to the end of the threads and 133mm to from the head flange to the tip of the bolt. McMaster Carr has SHCS grade 12.9 in 130mm length and longer, and HHCS from them grade 10.9 but only up to 120mm no longer.
 
XR7 Dave

XR7 Dave

Registered User
I would prefer not to use a socket head bolt. They are not near as robust when it comes time to remove them....
 
rzimmerl

rzimmerl

Registered User
Ford PN on the bolt is N805747-S100, its a package of 2. These are the ones I used for the rear not sure if they are the same for the front.
 
DLF

DLF

Registered User
rzimmerl said:
The stock bolt is M12x1.75 and 125mm from the head flange to the end of the threads and 133mm to from the head flange to the tip of the bolt. McMaster Carr has SHCS grade 12.9 in 130mm length and longer, and HHCS from them grade 10.9 but only up to 120mm no longer.
Click to expand...

Are there any markings on the bolt head?
 
XR7 Dave

XR7 Dave

Registered User
I believe the fronts are different. Something tells me they are a smaller bolt - like maybe even 10mm which is one reason why they break.
 
DLF

DLF

Registered User
XR7 Dave said:
I believe the fronts are different. Something tells me they are a smaller bolt - like maybe even 10mm which is one reason why they break.
Click to expand...

Well, I'll put the air gun on them later today, and we'll see.

If I break one, you probably won't ever hear from me again. :eek:
 
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