Water Pump Removal: How to get past the Bottom Bracket?

majorpisgah

SCCoA Member
I may have 1 of the old covers still, I'll have to dig it out & refresh my memory of the cooling passages.
I'll post pic's If I find it, but I hope thats not your issue.

In 1 of your previous post's did you not think the leak was from above the pump?
Doug I looked and looked brother. As you know it is hard to see behind all the accessories on the passenger side. It is defiantly not coming from the thermostat housing. All the hoses look great. Just green fluid right beside the "sensor mount" right behind the harmonic balancer. Water pump is bone dry all around. When I tightened that 15 mm nut on the stud on the bottom passenger side of the timing chain cover it really started coming out. The car has always been using a little coolant with not a drop on the ground. Just after this last trip to harpers very did it start to drip on the ground and then it would stop. Doug, this will be my first "big" job on an engine. I have gotten broken bolts out of blocks, changed alot of accessories, brakes, bushings, and the entire suspension on my 95 LX. Do you think this is something I can take on? I have the time and I really try to do things right. This is really my first "fluid" job...LOL.
 

majorpisgah

SCCoA Member
So I pulled the passenger side wiring harness off and cleaned all around the "cam shaft position sensor," and ran it. Its bone dry all around that area. Can see behind the AC pump that it is wet behind or on the side of the timing chain cover. Once she warms up, she does not leak a drop.
 

KMT

Registered User
Ford used stop-leak on the asmy. line, so....Toss some in it and re-check. Nothing super strength, just a mild additive to help seal minor leaks. Add it directly to the radiator, not the expansion tank.

Unless of course the entire cooling system needs an overhaul, in which case you might as well get busy.
 

Tim Groth

SCCoA Member
Doug I looked and looked brother. As you know it is hard to see behind all the accessories on the passenger side. It is defiantly not coming from the thermostat housing. All the hoses look great. Just green fluid right beside the "sensor mount" right behind the harmonic balancer. Water pump is bone dry all around. When I tightened that 15 mm nut on the stud on the bottom passenger side of the timing chain cover it really started coming out. The car has always been using a little coolant with not a drop on the ground. Just after this last trip to harpers very did it start to drip on the ground and then it would stop. Doug, this will be my first "big" job on an engine. I have gotten broken bolts out of blocks, changed alot of accessories, brakes, bushings, and the entire suspension on my 95 LX. Do you think this is something I can take on? I have the time and I really try to do things right. This is really my first "fluid" job...LOL.
Removal of the front cover, balancer and water pump isnt that daunting of a task. I can post bolt locations from the manuals if needed also. Just like most items on these cars its more time labor intensive than actually difficult to complete.

Alan bolt is the hidden bolt that gets most in trouble which you're aware of...special tools you'll need a balancer removal and install tool. Van rent from most parts stores. I believe SCCoA has a video that Pat published on YouTube when he did his BHJ install showing that step.

The rest is just labor.

-Tim
 

KMT

Registered User
Kmt if the radiator is slap full should i just suck a little out the top to get the stop leak in?
Yes, whatever is necessary so that all of the additive can be put in, then top it off w/coolant, then put the cap back on and heat cycle/run as directed.

Keep in mind it can take a couple heat cycles to establish the pressure/vacuum balance between the radiator cap and the expansion tank. Resist removing the cap unless necessary. Add/remove coolant from the tank when engine/level is at HOT, ignoring where the level in the expansion tank is when cold as long as it sits above COLD when sitting overnite.
 

majorpisgah

SCCoA Member
Been running around all day...its 95 out. AC blows nice and cold. Flushed and pressurized the system. Put the Barrs in. Doesnt leak a drop. No over heat. Thanks so very much guys!
 

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majorpisgah

SCCoA Member
On a completly off topic note. Is this the right stuff to use on the super charger? Do i also put it around the intercooler tube? Been running it without any gaskets. I here it hurts your gas mileage and boost of course. Sorry for the questions guys...am noob.
 

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majorpisgah

SCCoA Member
Good news that, thanks for the followup.
Oh, KMT before I forget. Get the mass airflow cleaner from walmart. $10. When you see this tiny little sensor your going to think im crazy. For the SC you have to remove the little protective tube. Please br very very careful its tiny and easy to bend and damage. But, one you follow the directions you WILL have a different car. It shifts better, runs better, its amazing. Did it on my 95 LX and it was literally a different car. Bought an hour or less. You will see all this black crap falling off the tiny tiny thing when you spray it.
 

majorpisgah

SCCoA Member
Yes, whatever is necessary so that all of the additive can be put in, then top it off w/coolant, then put the cap back on and heat cycle/run as directed.

Keep in mind it can take a couple heat cycles to establish the pressure/vacuum balance between the radiator cap and the expansion tank. Resist removing the cap unless necessary. Add/remove coolant from the tank when engine/level is at HOT, ignoring where the level in the expansion tank is when cold as long as it sits above COLD when sitting overnite.
KMT everything is bone dry...but now the overflow tank is filling up and slightly overflowing. Any thoughts?
 

KMT

Registered User
How old is the radiator cap? I like the 16# non-lever Motorcraft.

Did you level the coolant in the expansion tank while the engine is hot?

Any foam, bubbles, discoloration, odd smell in the tank?
 

S_Mazza

Registered User
KMT everything is bone dry...but now the overflow tank is filling up and slightly overflowing. Any thoughts?
Best case scenario - it's possible that because of leaking, adding, leaking, adding, it may be slightly overfilled. And all it needs is a bit of coolant removed.

Worst case scenario is that there's a head gasket leak. But it would likely present as bubbles in the overflow tank while running. Also as wild fluctuations in the engine coolant temperature gauge.
 

majorpisgah

SCCoA Member
Best case scenario - it's possible that because of leaking, adding, leaking, adding, it may be slightly overfilled. And all it needs is a bit of coolant removed.

Worst case scenario is that there's a head gasket leak. But it would likely present as bubbles in the overflow tank while running. Also as wild fluctuations in the engine coolant temperature gauge.
Thanks Mazza. Yea I have a problem. I have been running it fine this week without leaks after adding the coolant stop leak product to the radiator. I have not run it on a really hot day though. I am getting a lot of up and down on the temps now. Nothing outside the word NORMAL on the gauge and it is not getting on the hot side. The family is mad at me because all I have in the interior in the drivers seat lol. Been using her as a super coupe SUV lol. Just a fun car to drive. Bushings on the way!
 
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