What have you done to your SC lately?

SC-AL

Registered User
I've made minor repairs in the last month or so to my 1989 5spd:
1). Added new downpipes, and 2-1/4" id to 2" od reducers, using T-bolt style band clamps. Still stock from resonator, back. Slightly more noise, but no drone.
Also to make them fit to the stock exhaust manifolds, I cut the 2" flared pipes off the old ones, and dropped them in 2-1/4 pipes. No leaks!
2). Converted the oil pressure sender to a real one. I had the 20Ω resistor in the harness. Reads between barely to the left of straight up, to the L on NORMAL.
3). Switched the Speedometers from my 1990, to my 89, to correct an inaccurate reading. The 89 speedo would read 18 mph fast, (against my GPS), when cold, then
become more accurate, the longer you drove. I'm thinking bad capacitors, that change with temperature. The 90 one is fast by only 1 to 1-1/2 mph.
4). Replaced the keypad, with an unused one from a 1995-98 Windstar. Got it off of Ebay, cheap. Had to splice the old harness to the new one. The backlight didn't
work, so I removed, (bypassed), the diodes?, on the illumination circuits. Works perfect, now. Has bigger, easier to use buttons, but not as stealth.
5). While I had the door panel off, I adjusted the glass in the tracks, and repaired the power mirror switch. Also, had to replace the seatbelt motor, and module. Clean/lube drive belt.

Driven the old SC 5,500 miles, since the starting with a the engine job, have almost everything working well, including moonroof seal, sub woofer, auto dim, windows, locks, cup holders, etc., etc. I haven't charged the AC yet, but the new accumulator, and orifice tube is in, and it's all hooked up, and under a deep vacuum.

IMG_20240417_151709257 (Small).jpgIMG_20240416_231832487 (Small).jpg
 
Complete factory color (ZU) re-spray - no bodywork needed.
Repaired tear in back seats.
Replaced ignition key, lock and cylinder with NOS factory new one
Replaced both headlights with upgraded versions
replaced factory halogen headlights with LED's
repaired speedo gear
removed wheel locks and replaced with factory lugs
In progress of replacing both upper control arms.
 
So just a heads up on your lock cylinder. I'm assuming that you now have 3 keys to your car 1 for trunk 1 for doors 1 for ign? The doors and ign really need to be on the same key if you where ever to loose all your keys it'll cost you twice as much for a locksmith to make one due to the fact doors and ign do not match. We make a key for your door first then whatever the depths in the 5th and the are is how we being to figure out your ign. But if they are different we drill and replace the ign. But you can have your currant ign rekeyed to match your door key to prevent that issue
 
I ordered upper/lower ball joints and tires for my SC. And some stabilizer links for my 97 yesterday looking forward to having something other than Nascar approved racing slicks on it. The current tires are badly worn out
 
So just a heads up on your lock cylinder. I'm assuming that you now have 3 keys to your car 1 for trunk 1 for doors 1 for ign? The doors and ign really need to be on the same key if you where ever to loose all your keys it'll cost you twice as much for a locksmith to make one due to the fact doors and ign do not match. We make a key for your door first then whatever the depths in the 5th and the are is how we being to figure out your ign. But if they are different we drill and replace the ign. But you can have your currant ign rekeyed to match your door key to prevent that issue
I thought about that but I have 2 extra fobs with new batteries in both of them. I also keep the old ign / door key stuck in my wallet and one in a a hide-a-key box under the frame just in case everything else fails. I may in the future re-key the ign lock to the old one so the keys will all work..
 
That would be the way to do it. So if your fairly handy you could pull the ign (not hard at all with working keys) take it to a locksmith and have it rekeyed we would charge at our shop about $25 to do it. Whereas if we come to you and do it it's about $150
 
That would be the way to do it. So if your fairly handy you could pull the ign (not hard at all with working keys) take it to a locksmith and have it rekeyed we would charge at our shop about $25 to do it. Whereas if we come to you and do it it's about $150
And I assume your probably not in or near Columbia South Carolina or I'd say bring it to me
 
I ordered upper/lower ball joints and tires for my SC. And some stabilizer links for my 97 yesterday looking forward to having something other than Nascar approved racing slicks on it. The current tires are badly worn out
Are you replacing the entire upper control arms or just the ball joint? Mine came all as one piece for $35.00 each side. One of the bushings was actually missing from one side of the wishbone.
That would be the way to do it. So if your fairly handy you could pull the ign (not hard at all with working keys) take it to a locksmith and have it rekeyed we would charge at our shop about $25 to do it. Whereas if we come to you and do it it's about $150
Where are you located? maybe I could send it to you. to rekey?
 
I ordered upper/lower ball joints and tires for my SC. And some stabilizer links for my 97 yesterday looking forward to having something other than Nascar approved racing slicks on it. The current tires are badly worn out
Are you replacing the entire upper control arms or just the ball joint? Mine came all as one piece for $35.00 each side. One of the bushings was actually missing from one side of the wishbone.
And I assume your probably not in or near Columbia South Carolina or I'd say bring it to me
In California. But I could ship it to you I guess?
 
Yes it's the whole ball joint assembly, I order both upper and lower assemblies for both drivers and passengers side then I'll drive it on bad tires a mile to have the new tires and alignment done.
 
I noticed that mine are factory Upper Control arms, at least the one on the driver side is. They are TRW. Appears that the rubber boot tore open and the grease came out. The ball joint itself is basically stuck and does not move around w/o banging it with a hammer. I'm only changing that one since the others look good. Ford changed them about 15K miles ago. I have all the receipts from when I bought the car in 2012. He had the motor mounts replaced and all ignition components changed. The car still runs like brand new. Planning on changing the tires next month, so I'll do the alignment then.
 
So doing my ball joints and gonna do tires after I take it to get an Alignment. ya'll think I got the life out these tires?
 

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So, I got the Moog Upper left side and the bolt would not go in though. I did a caliper measurement and there was a 1.7mm difference. Compared the stock TRW arm to the Moog and noticed that the stock one has a beveled pintle to allow clearance for the bolt, the Moog one did not. Sent it back and waiting for the Dorman to come tomorrow.
 
Humm I'll check that on mine once I get an upper off. I got moogs. We'll I did moogs on my 97 tbird and didn't have that issue
 
Humm I'll check that on mine once I get an upper off. I got moogs. We'll I did moogs on my 97 tbird and didn't have that issue
They came in a Moog box but not on the arm itself. It had no name, just the part number which was correct.
 
Replaced the leaking Flex-Lok fuel lines that were installed with my AR years ago. Was going to just replace the hose, but the manufacturer's website states "not recommended for unleaded fuel", so I replaced with new braided fuel line and fittings. The new fittings were slightly bigger and almost had to disassemble way more of the engine than I really wanted to.

It still has an intermittent tach issue when it is over 70ºF outside where the tach will stop reading and eventually throw a check engine light, but the car otherwise seems to run fine during the issue (no stumble or anything)
 
Replaced the leaking Flex-Lok fuel lines that were installed with my AR years ago. Was going to just replace the hose, but the manufacturer's website states "not recommended for unleaded fuel", so I replaced with new braided fuel line and fittings. The new fittings were slightly bigger and almost had to disassemble way more of the engine than I really wanted to.

It still has an intermittent tach issue when it is over 70ºF outside where the tach will stop reading and eventually throw a check engine light, but the car otherwise seems to run fine during the issue (no stumble or anything)

Kurt,

Glad you found the leak before something bad happened.
 
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