What have you done to your SC lately?

Replaced the rear upper control arm bushings and wired a bluetooth receiver to my stock cassette deck via the CD player input. I'll post a writeup on that as I did it a little different than what I've seen here (radio displays "CD" on the display and cuts out the receiver. I had hoped to install my Griffen Rad, but it didn't come in yet.
 
Got around to getting my A/C system, back on line this weekend. When I had the engine out, I flushed out the system, and replace the accumulator, O-rings, and modified the liquid line, with a orifice tube repair kit. I'm using the compressor from the low miles, replacement engine. Put the system into a deep vacuum, 8 months ago, and it still was under a vacuum. Added 7oz of mineral oil, and re-evacuated for 40 minutes. Charged with 40oz. of the proper R12 refrigerant. Cycle switch cutout adjusted to 24-25 #, with the high side running no higher than in 160# with a 80° ambient temp. No leaks detected with my sniffer, and blows cold. Compressor sounds good, also.
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Replaced the passenger side upper control arm. Discovered that none of my open end wrenches would work, so I had to remove the Accumulator / Dryer bottle to get a box end on the nut. After completion, we decided to recharge the system anyway. It was down 1.2 lbs after 6 years. Not too bad. It ran super cold even down over a pound of Freon. Fixed 2 coolant leaks. Runs like a top once again.
 
I've done inner and outer tie rods, all ps lines, alternator, carbon roof wrap, black satin door pillar wrap, new coated sc rotors and snout seal,new springs all around, fmic push fan, black exaust tips, newer trunk lid and tail lights,,led bulbs all around,tinted head lights and tail lights.new plugs and wires,headlight switch,285 goodyears on rear... end of run on sentence...lol thats a before pic
 

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I've done inner and outer tie rods, all ps lines, alternator, carbon roof wrap, black satin door pillar wrap, new coated sc rotors and snout seal,new springs all around, fmic push fan, black exaust tips, newer trunk lid and tail lights,,led bulbs all around,tinted head lights and tail lights.new plugs and wires,headlight switch,285 goodyears on rear... end of run on sentence...lol thats a before pic
Did the LED bulbs interfere with the cruise control?
 
Did the LED bulbs interfere with the cruise control?
I don't know cause I haven't used cruise since the 1st day I owned the car.
.almost got whiplash...lol but it was giving an alarm when I signaled to turn so I put in load resistors...headlights were never a problem
 
Ah. I use it all the time. The cruise has always worked great in the SC and was considering putting LED's in, like I did with my Nova Resto 4.8L but they caused the cruise not to work.
 
Buff and wax
 

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I finally got the "anti lock" light off, and the system working. Now everything works. I have spent a fair amount of diagnostic time on this issue. I have an OTC4000 scanner, but it would not show any fault codes. I checked all the abs control module inputs; voltage, resistance, etc. Even swapped the module from my 90 SC. One strange thing it does, is if I pump the brakes fast, and hard, the ABS light would go out, for a minute, or so. I back probed a jumper between pin 25, and 27 of the module, bypassing the fluid level, and the pressure warning switches. Light still on. Last night I got an idea, and cut the wires, going to pin 25, and 27. The wire from the PWS, (Pressure Warning Switch), was internally grounding,@ (28Ω). So now I connected together pin25, and 27, so the control module thinks the PWS, and fluid level are normal. Light is off, and ABS is working, as I tested on a gravel road. The red brake light will still go on if the fluid gets low, and if I loose pressure, my pedal will go hard. I'm in no hurry to replace the pressure switch, since it controls the abs pump relay, just fine.
 
I finally got the "anti lock" light off, and the system working. Now everything works. I have spent a fair amount of diagnostic time on this issue. I have an OTC4000 scanner, but it would not show any fault codes. I checked all the abs control module inputs; voltage, resistance, etc. Even swapped the module from my 90 SC. One strange thing it does, is if I pump the brakes fast, and hard, the ABS light would go out, for a minute, or so. I back probed a jumper between pin 25, and 27 of the module, bypassing the fluid level, and the pressure warning switches. Light still on. Last night I got an idea, and cut the wires, going to pin 25, and 27. The wire from the PWS, (Pressure Warning Switch), was internally grounding,@ (28Ω). So now I connected together pin25, and 27, so the control module thinks the PWS, and fluid level are normal. Light is off, and ABS is working, as I tested on a gravel road. The red brake light will still go on if the fluid gets low, and if I loose pressure, my pedal will go hard. I'm in no hurry to replace the pressure switch, since it controls the abs pump relay, just fine.
I've saved this as something to check on my 35th.
 
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