Me too. That would have been horrible.Kurt,
Glad you found the leak before something bad happened.
Did the LED bulbs interfere with the cruise control?I've done inner and outer tie rods, all ps lines, alternator, carbon roof wrap, black satin door pillar wrap, new coated sc rotors and snout seal,new springs all around, fmic push fan, black exaust tips, newer trunk lid and tail lights,,led bulbs all around,tinted head lights and tail lights.new plugs and wires,headlight switch,285 goodyears on rear... end of run on sentence...lol thats a before pic
I don't know cause I haven't used cruise since the 1st day I owned the car.Did the LED bulbs interfere with the cruise control?
I used these and all was good.Ah. I use it all the time. The cruise has always worked great in the SC and was considering putting LED's in, like I did with my Nova Resto 4.8L but they caused the cruise not to work.
I've saved this as something to check on my 35th.I finally got the "anti lock" light off, and the system working. Now everything works. I have spent a fair amount of diagnostic time on this issue. I have an OTC4000 scanner, but it would not show any fault codes. I checked all the abs control module inputs; voltage, resistance, etc. Even swapped the module from my 90 SC. One strange thing it does, is if I pump the brakes fast, and hard, the ABS light would go out, for a minute, or so. I back probed a jumper between pin 25, and 27 of the module, bypassing the fluid level, and the pressure warning switches. Light still on. Last night I got an idea, and cut the wires, going to pin 25, and 27. The wire from the PWS, (Pressure Warning Switch), was internally grounding,@ (28Ω). So now I connected together pin25, and 27, so the control module thinks the PWS, and fluid level are normal. Light is off, and ABS is working, as I tested on a gravel road. The red brake light will still go on if the fluid gets low, and if I loose pressure, my pedal will go hard. I'm in no hurry to replace the pressure switch, since it controls the abs pump relay, just fine.
Good idea. Modern vehicles have been shutting off, and controling the heaters on wideband HO2 sensors, and even narrow band sensors, for years. It's a cold start strategy to eliminate condensation shock, just like you are thinking.Installed another new wide band o2 sensor. I'm lucky if I can get these sensors to last a year. 99% sure it's getting condensation on the sensor which is damaging it. I'm thinking about rewiring the Innovate wideband to have switched power, so I can leave it off until I blow the condensation out of the exhaust.